{"id":7596,"date":"2020-07-06T12:13:00","date_gmt":"2020-07-06T10:13:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/?p=7596"},"modified":"2021-02-15T15:57:06","modified_gmt":"2021-02-15T14:57:06","slug":"pavouci-zeny","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/2020\/07\/06\/pavouci-zeny\/","title":{"rendered":"Pavou\u010d\u00ed \u017eeny"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Publikov\u00e1no v magaz\u00ednu Koktejl, \u010d\u00edslo 07\/08, rok 2020<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mingalaba! M\u00e1v\u00e1 a zdrav\u00ed m\u011b s \u00fasm\u011bvem od ucha k uchu kolemjdouc\u00ed mu\u017e. V Mandalay jsem si u nesm\u011bl\u00e9ho Zaka, Brita, kter\u00fd se do Myanmaru p\u0159ed osmi roky o\u017eenil, pronajal motorku s ter\u00e9nn\u00edmi \u00fapravami. \u0158\u00eddit auto cizinec v Myanmaru nem\u016f\u017ee, mezin\u00e1rodn\u00ed \u0159idi\u010dsk\u00fd pr\u016fkaz tu toti\u017e m\u00edstn\u00ed vl\u00e1da neakceptuje. S p\u016fj\u010den\u00edm motorky na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed probl\u00e9m nem\u00e1. Po dvou dnech j\u00edzdy jsem kone\u010dn\u011b dorazil do hornat\u00e9 oblasti nejchud\u0161\u00edho myanmarsk\u00e9ho st\u00e1tu \u010cjin. \u017de jsem v odlehl\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch pozn\u00e1v\u00e1m z\u00e1hy. Nejen\u017ee potk\u00e1v\u00e1m mnohem m\u00e9n\u011b lid\u00ed a za ka\u017ed\u00fd pozdrav, jako byl ten p\u0159ed chv\u00edl\u00ed, jsem vlastn\u011b moc r\u00e1d. Hlavn\u011b se ale docela razantn\u011b zm\u011bnilo po\u010das\u00ed. Teplota dosahuje deseti stup\u0148\u016f Celsia a vytrvale pr\u0161\u00ed.  K ve\u010deru jsem r\u00e1d za horkou pol\u00e9vku i ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed s teplou vodou. Po \u010dty\u0159ech dnech v sedle jsem kone\u010dn\u011b dos\u00e1hl nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edho vrcholu t\u00e9to oblasti Mt. Victoria. Vyp\u00edn\u00e1 se do v\u00fd\u0161ky 3 053 metr\u016f a z jej\u00edho vrcholu je kr\u00e1sn\u00fd v\u00fdhled do d\u00e1li. Do d\u00e1li, kde na m\u011b ve vesni\u010dce Kido \u010dekaj\u00edpavou\u010d\u00ed \u017eeny kmene Ra! Ony o m\u011b zat\u00edm nev\u011bd\u00ed a j\u00e1 douf\u00e1m, \u017ee m\u011b mezi sebe p\u0159ijmou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Hornat\u00e1 oblast \u010djinsk\u00e9ho st\u00e1tu se rozprost\u00edr\u00e1 na z\u00e1pad\u011b Myanmaru, u hranic Indie a Banglad\u00e9\u0161e. Zdej\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9 hovo\u0159\u00ed vlastn\u00edm jazykem, kter\u00fd se li\u0161\u00ed a\u017e ve \u010dty\u0159iceti dialektech. Jazykov\u00e1 rozmanitost zdej\u0161\u00edho \u00fazem\u00ed je natolik velk\u00e1, \u017ee dialektem, kter\u00fdm se mluv\u00ed v jednom \u00fadol\u00ed, se lid\u00e9 v \u00fadol\u00ed sousedn\u00edm u\u017e nedorozum\u011bj\u00ed. Mn\u011b tedy nezb\u00fdv\u00e1 nic jin\u00e9ho, ne\u017e s m\u00edstn\u00edmi komunikovat bu\u010f rukama nohama, nebo za pomoci anglicky mluv\u00edc\u00edho domorodce. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed jsem je\u0161t\u011b v Mandalay z\u00edskal cenn\u00fd kontakt na u\u010ditele Josepha. Setkat se s n\u00edm m\u00e1m ale a\u017e ve vesnici. \u010cjinov\u00e9 p\u0159i\u0161li na zdej\u0161\u00ed \u00fazem\u00ed 1000 let p\u0159. n. l. z Tibetu a tvo\u0159\u00ed velk\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed r\u016fznorod\u00fdch kmen\u016f a etnick\u00fdch skupin. Kulturou a tradicemi jsou si bli\u017e\u0161\u00ed sp\u00ed\u0161e s kmeny okoln\u00edch st\u00e1t\u016f ne\u017e se zbytkem n\u00e1rod\u016f Myanmaru. V cel\u00e9 t\u00e9to oblasti dominuje k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed, ale i tady p\u0159etrval prastar\u00fd animismus. Opakovan\u00e9 snahy barmsk\u00e9 vl\u00e1dy zav\u00e9st do oblasti buddhismus nem\u011bly valn\u00fd \u00fasp\u011bch. Zomi, Asho, K’cho, Kuki a dal\u0161\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed etnika, ti v\u0161ichni br\u00e1n\u00ed d\u00e1vn\u00e9 tradice sv\u00fdch kultur, jak nejv\u00edce mohou. Ned\u00edlnou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed domorod\u00e9ho \u017eivota je proto i magick\u00e9 nadp\u0159irozeno. Ani v Kido proto nechyb\u00ed ch\u00fd\u0161e zdoben\u00e9 k\u0159\u00ed\u017ei, ale i lebkami buvol\u016f nebo d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 olt\u00e1\u0159e pro lesn\u00ed duchy, tzv. naty.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jen p\u00e1r minut po p\u0159\u00edjezdu do vesnice se setk\u00e1v\u00e1m s prvn\u00ed pavou\u010d\u00ed \u017eenou. Joseph nikde, ale posunk\u016fm rozum\u00edme oba skv\u011ble. Pan\u00ed je moc kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 a mil\u00e1. S vd\u011bkem od n\u00ed po chv\u00edli nonverb\u00e1ln\u00ed komunikace p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1m pozv\u00e1n\u00ed na ob\u011bd. Po vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed cest\u011b se j\u00eddlo hod\u00ed, nav\u00edc jsem se dnes moc nenasn\u00eddal. V m\u00fdch p\u0159edstav\u00e1ch jsem si myslel, \u017ee mi nab\u00eddne suchou r\u00fd\u017ei, kter\u00e1 by mi bohat\u011b sta\u010dila. K m\u00e9mu p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed mi pan\u00ed spolu se sv\u00fdmi dcerami p\u0159ipravila doslova hostinu kr\u00e1l\u016f. Za sv\u016fj \u017eivot jsem sjel kus sv\u011bt,ale nikde ani nikdy jsem nevid\u011bl tak pohostinn\u00e9 lidi jako tady v Barm\u011b. M\u00edstn\u00ed by se rozdali jen proto, aby mi pomohli nebo ud\u011blali radost. Vedle r\u00fd\u017ee jsou na zemi p\u0159ede mnou misti\u010dky se sma\u017eenou rybu, zeleninou a n\u011bkolika druhy om\u00e1\u010dek. J\u00eddlo je skv\u011bl\u00e9. \u201cD\u017eezubare, d\u017eezubare\u201c \u2013 pokorn\u011b d\u011bkuji \u017een\u00e1m \u00faklony se semknut\u00fdma rukama p\u0159ed obli\u010dejem. Popravd\u011b mus\u00edm p\u0159iznat, \u017ee jsem se zde v zakou\u0159en\u00e9 mali\u010dk\u00e9 ch\u00fd\u0161i na zemi najedl l\u00e9pe ne\u017e v kdejak\u00e9 vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 restauraci. Kone\u010dn\u011b se setk\u00e1v\u00e1m s Josephem. Je to sympa\u0165\u00e1k, u\u010ditel, kter\u00fd p\u0159ed lety ode\u0161el do m\u011bsta a do rodn\u00e9 vesnice se ob\u010dasn\u011b vrac\u00ed v dob\u011b \u0161koln\u00edch pr\u00e1zdnin. Hned po sezn\u00e1men\u00ed m\u011b zasv\u011bcuje do tajemstv\u00ed zdej\u0161\u00ed kultury. Kr\u00e1sa pavou\u010d\u00edch \u017een je pr\u00fd proslul\u00e1 \u0161iroko daleko. \u017densk\u00e9 tv\u00e1\u0159e o\u0161lehan\u00e9 drsn\u00fdm krajem zdob\u00ed unik\u00e1tn\u00ed tetov\u00e1n\u00ed. Pro takovou kr\u00e1su ale v\u0161echny musely trp\u011bt. Mezi 11. a 15. rokem je jejich rodiny tetovali za pomoci p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edch barviv a p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm pali\u010dek s jehlicemi. Podot\u00fdk\u00e1m, \u017ee bez pou\u017eit\u00ed jedin\u00e9 umrtvovac\u00ed injekce! Nen\u00ed divu, \u017ee z\u00fa\u010dastn\u011bn\u00ed museli d\u00edvky n\u00e1sil\u00edm dr\u017eet, aby n\u011bkolikahodinov\u00e9 utrpen\u00ed v\u016fbec vydr\u017eely.  Jen p\u0159i t\u00e9 p\u0159edstav\u011b m\u011b bol\u00ed tv\u00e1\u0159e. Tetov\u00e1n\u00ed se mezi jednotliv\u00fdmi kmeny li\u0161\u00ed vzory, od mal\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1rek a te\u010dek a\u017e po obrazce pokr\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed cel\u00fd obli\u010dej. Pt\u00e1m se Josepha, pro\u010d \u017eeny tuto bolestivou tradici v\u016fbec podstupovaly? Vypr\u00e1v\u00ed mi, \u017ee barm\u0161t\u00ed kr\u00e1lov\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 \u017eeny a d\u00edvky un\u00e1\u0161eli. Tetov\u00e1n\u00ed tak m\u011blo v\u0161echny chtiv\u00e9 panovn\u00edky i cizince tou\u017e\u00edc\u00ed po \u010djink\u00e1ch odradit. \u010cekal jsem, \u017ee potetovan\u00fdch \u017een potk\u00e1m o trochu v\u00edc. Nejsem zklaman\u00fd, to rozhodn\u011b ne, ale c\u00edt\u00edm velk\u00fd smutek, proto\u017ee mladou potetovanou \u017eenu, jsem nespat\u0159il ani jednu. Doch\u00e1z\u00ed mi, \u017ee se setk\u00e1v\u00e1m s jedn\u011bmi z v\u016fbec posledn\u00edch pavou\u010d\u00edch \u017een na sv\u011bt\u011b. Tuto starod\u00e1vnou tradici v 60. letech vojensk\u00e1 junta ozna\u010dila za barbarsk\u00fd zvyk a pod p\u0159\u00edsn\u00fdmi tresty ji bohu\u017eel zak\u00e1zala. Tento z\u00e1kaz plat\u00ed dodnes. Dal\u0161\u00ed z kulturn\u00edch tradic mizej\u00edc\u00edch z tohoto sv\u011bta! Ach jo!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Na vlastn\u00ed o\u010di vid\u00edm, \u017ee \u017eivot ve zdej\u0161\u00edch hor\u00e1ch je nesm\u00edrn\u011b obt\u00ed\u017en\u00fd. Joseph mi vypr\u00e1v\u00ed, \u017ee zemi v minulosti n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t postihl hladomor, naposledy to bylo v roce 2008. Zdravotn\u00ed p\u00e9\u010de je zde nedosta\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed, vesnice \u0161patn\u011b p\u0159\u00edstupn\u00e9, bez elekt\u0159iny a pitn\u00e9 vody. Kolem 70 % \u010cjin\u016f \u017eije pod hranic\u00ed chudoby a zhruba 40 % jich str\u00e1d\u00e1 nedostatkem j\u00eddla. V t\u00e9to odlehl\u00e9 oblasti tak st\u00e1le plat\u00ed, \u017ee \u010dlov\u011bk m\u00e1 jen to, co si s\u00e1m za\u0159\u00edd\u00ed \u2013 tedy vyp\u011bstuje a odchov\u00e1. Pro zpest\u0159en\u00ed j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dku se m\u00edstn\u00ed mu\u017ei ob\u010dasn\u011b vydaj\u00ed do les\u016f a n\u011bco dobr\u00e9ho ulov\u00ed. Je tomu tak i druh\u00fd den r\u00e1no, kdy m\u011b Joseph spolu s jeho kamar\u00e1dem Tinem berou do zdej\u0161\u00edho lesa. Pt\u00e1\u010dek, kter\u00e9ho Tin dnes po dvou hodin\u00e1ch b\u011bh\u00e1n\u00ed po kopc\u00edch ulovil v\u0161ak poslou\u017e\u00ed k jin\u00e9mu \u00fa\u010delu, ne\u017e je p\u0159\u00edprava pokrmu. Stane se ob\u011btinou pro duchy v pr\u016fb\u011bhu jedn\u00e9 z nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00edch ceremoni\u00ed nejen zdej\u0161\u00ed oblasti. S\u00e1m jsem z informace, co se ve vesnici p\u0159ihodilo, zasko\u010den\u00fd. Jak mi Joseph p\u0159ekl\u00e1d\u00e1 do\u0161lo jen n\u011bkolik m\u00e1lo hodin p\u0159ed m\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edjezdem k tragick\u00e9 ud\u00e1losti.Jeden z m\u00edstn\u00edch mlad\u00edk\u016f se ne\u0161\u0165astnou n\u00e1hodou zast\u0159elil. Zanechal tu \u010dty\u0159i mal\u00e9 d\u011bti a dv\u011b man\u017eelky. Ano \u010dtete spr\u00e1vn\u011b, dv\u011b man\u017eelky. V Barm\u011b je toti\u017e dovolen\u00e9 o\u017eenit se s v\u00edce \u017eenami najednou. Poh\u0159ebn\u00ed ceremonie je nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00edm ob\u0159adem mnoh\u00fdch kultur a n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00fdch sm\u011br\u016f. Tradi\u010dn\u011b se v tomto kraji lid\u00e9 pochov\u00e1vaj\u00ed do zem\u011b pod b\u0159idlicov\u00e9 n\u00e1hrobky v bl\u00edzkosti ch\u00fd\u0161\u00ed. Kdy\u017e se ale stane ne\u0161\u0165astn\u00e1 ud\u00e1lost, jako tomu je nyn\u00ed, m\u00edstn\u00ed v\u011b\u0159\u00ed, \u017ee se jedn\u00e1 o pomstu zdej\u0161\u00edch boh\u016f nat\u016f. Aby se sv\u011bt dostal op\u011bt do rovnov\u00e1hy, mus\u00ed poh\u0159ebn\u00ed ceremonie prob\u011bhnout nejenom co nejrychleji, ale tak\u00e9 formou kremace.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Po n\u00e1vratu z lesa jsem pozv\u00e1n do n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edkovy ch\u00fd\u0161e, kde ceremonie za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1. Abych byl slu\u0161n\u00fd a m\u00edstn\u00ed neurazil, dodr\u017euji v t\u00e9to ojedin\u011bl\u00e9 situaci m\u00edstn\u00ed etiketu a p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1m skleni\u010dku kuku\u0159i\u010dn\u00e9ho v\u00edna i uv\u00edtac\u00ed pokrm \u2013 uva\u0159en\u00e9 vnit\u0159nosti s r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed. Jak se po ch\u00fd\u0161i rozhl\u00ed\u017e\u00edm, udr\u017eet v pr\u016fb\u011bhu ceremonie st\u0159\u00edzliv\u00e9ho ducha nebude jednoduch\u00e9. Je toti\u017e slu\u0161nost\u00ed, ka\u017ed\u00e9 pozv\u00e1n\u00ed na skleni\u010dku oplatit. A tak se tu opl\u00e1c\u00ed a opl\u00e1c\u00ed\u2026 Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed uct\u011bn\u00ed nebo\u017et\u00edka v n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edkov\u011b ch\u00fd\u0161i netrv\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 dlouho. Po chv\u00edli se v\u0161ichni setk\u00e1v\u00e1me u domu zesnul\u00e9ho. Kn\u011b\u017e\u00ed vykon\u00e1 ob\u0159ad a cel\u00e1 vesnice se s mlad\u00edkem lou\u010d\u00ed. Mu\u017ei na poct\u011bn\u00ed mrtv\u00e9ho kamar\u00e1da st\u0159\u00edl\u00ed salvy do vzduchu. Vyst\u0159elit v\u00edce ne\u017e dvakr\u00e1t je odnepam\u011bti pro v\u0161echny v tomto kraji jasn\u00fdm sign\u00e1lem, \u017ee se ud\u00e1la trag\u00e9die, vysv\u011btluje mi Joseph. Op\u011btovn\u00e9 v\u00fdst\u0159ely ze sousedn\u00edch vesnic d\u00e1vaj\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00edm najevo soustrast. N\u00e1lada je do t\u00e9to chv\u00edle vlastn\u011b docela uvoln\u011bn\u00e1. Lid\u00e9 si pov\u00eddaj\u00ed, pop\u00edj\u00ed, dokonce se i usm\u00edvaj\u00ed a nechyb\u00ed ani velmi sv\u00e9r\u00e1zn\u00fd tanec. I j\u00e1 nakonec sv\u00e9 tane\u010dn\u00ed um\u011bn\u00ed mus\u00edm k pobaven\u00ed v\u0161ech p\u0159edv\u00e9st. I kdy\u017e to do t\u00e9to doby moc nevypadalo, smutn\u00ed se ale i tady. Pro ka\u017ed\u00e9ho rodi\u010de je t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 poh\u0159b\u00edt sv\u00e9 d\u00edt\u011b. Teskliv\u00fd zp\u011bv maminky v pr\u016fb\u011bhu kremace jej\u00edho syna mi bude v u\u0161\u00edch zn\u00edt asi je\u0161t\u011b hodn\u011b dlouho. N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva vesnice pavou\u010d\u00edch \u017een se pro m\u011b d\u00edky neo\u010dek\u00e1van\u00fdm ud\u00e1lostem stala opravdu hodn\u011b siln\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkem. B\u00fdt tv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed v tv\u00e1\u0159 smrti m\u011b v\u017edycky vede k zamy\u0161len\u00ed. D\u00edky pozn\u00e1n\u00ed pohledu jin\u00fdch kultur na smrt, jsem i j\u00e1 v tomto ohledu mnohem optimisti\u010dt\u011bji. Smrt je nejenom p\u0159irozenou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed na\u0161eho byt\u00ed. Nen\u00ed pro m\u011b tedy jen smutn\u00fdm koncem, ale p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm nad\u011bjn\u00fdm za\u010d\u00e1tkem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dal\u0161\u00ed dva dny ve vesnici Kido se nesou ve vesel\u00e9m uvoln\u011bn\u00e9m duchu. M\u00edstn\u00ed mi p\u0159edv\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed sv\u00e1 obydl\u00ed, p\u0159edstavuj\u00ed mi jednotliv\u00e9 \u010dleny rodiny, chlub\u00ed se sv\u00fdmi zv\u00ed\u0159aty, \u017eeny tetov\u00e1n\u00edm. A\u017e je mi l\u00edto, \u017ee i zde \u010das utekl neuv\u011b\u0159itelnou rychlost\u00ed a j\u00e1 se po n\u011bkolika dnech mus\u00edm se v\u0161emi rozlou\u010dit. Jsem zv\u011bdav\u00fd, jak\u00fd osud tuto kr\u00e1snou a ohro\u017eenou kulturu \u010dek\u00e1. Naposledy m\u00e1v\u00e1m Josephovi, pavou\u010d\u00edm \u017een\u00e1m i v\u0161em obyvatel\u016fm malebn\u00e9 vesni\u010dky Kido.  Nased\u00e1m na motorku a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edm za dal\u0161\u00edm myanmarsk\u00fdm dobrodru\u017estv\u00edm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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