{"id":7189,"date":"2020-09-04T18:09:00","date_gmt":"2020-09-04T16:09:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/?p=7189"},"modified":"2021-02-15T12:15:35","modified_gmt":"2021-02-15T11:15:35","slug":"zeme-bassari","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/2020\/09\/04\/zeme-bassari\/","title":{"rendered":"ZEM\u011a BASSARI"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Publikov\u00e1no v magaz\u00ednu Koktejl, \u010d\u00edslo 10, rok 2020<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

V Senegalu \u017eije 15,74 milion\u016f obyvatel z nich\u017e se p\u011btadevades\u00e1t procent hl\u00e1s\u00ed k isl\u00e1msk\u00e9 v\u00ed\u0159e, \u010dty\u0159i procenta tvo\u0159\u00ed k\u0159es\u0165an\u00e9 a zbyl\u00e9 procento p\u0159ipad\u00e1 na ostatn\u00ed n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed, pop\u0159\u00edpad\u011b animismus. O Senegalu se v\u0161ak \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee je domovem p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm Senegalc\u016f. Samotn\u00e9ho m\u011b p\u0159ed cestou zaj\u00edmalo, co to znamen\u00e1. P\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dil jsem se o tom z\u00e1hy po p\u0159\u00edjezdu do t\u00e9to z\u00e1padoafrick\u00e9 zem\u011b. Na jak\u00e9koliv rozli\u0161ov\u00e1n\u00ed v\u00edry, vyzn\u00e1n\u00ed a rozd\u00edly se v Senegalu prost\u011b a jednodu\u0161e nehraje. T\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 \u0161estn\u00e1ct milion\u016f lid\u00ed \u017eije v t\u00e9to zemi vedle sebe spokojen\u011b, v harmonii a vz\u00e1jemn\u00e9 nejen n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00e9 toleranci. Skv\u011bl\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edkladem sm\u00ed\u0159livosti senegalsk\u00e9ho isl\u00e1mu a k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed se pro m\u011b stal k\u0159es\u0165ansko-muslimsk\u00fd h\u0159bitov, kter\u00fd se nach\u00e1z\u00ed v Joal-Fadiouth na jihoz\u00e1padn\u00edm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Senegalu. V pr\u016fb\u011bhu m\u00e9 dvou m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dn\u00ed cesty po perle z\u00e1padn\u00ed Afriky, jsem se \u010dasto p\u0159istihl, jak se s\u00e1m sebe pt\u00e1m \u201eJak je tohle mo\u017en\u00e9? Pro\u010d v Senegalu funguje n\u011bco, co okoln\u00ed sv\u011bt tolik rozd\u011bluje?\u201c Odpov\u011bd\u00ed mi v takov\u00fdch chv\u00edl\u00edch bylo jedno jedin\u00e9 slovo \u2013 teranga.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Pod slovem tenranga se ukr\u00fdv\u00e1 v\u0161e, co Senegalce charakterizuje. Teranga je v\u00fdraz pro p\u0159\u00e1telskou pohostinnost, kter\u00e1 je sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00edho zp\u016fsobu \u017eivota. D\u00edky tomu, tu n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed funguj\u00ed vedle sebe, nebo se vz\u00e1jemn\u011b propl\u00e9taj\u00ed v rodinn\u00fdch vazb\u00e1ch, ve \u0161kol\u00e1ch, na kulturn\u00edch ud\u00e1lostech. Teranga je hluboce zako\u0159en\u011bna v m\u00edstn\u00ed tradici. Lid\u00e9 o n\u00ed proto nep\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00ed, terangu prost\u011b \u017eij\u00ed a je jejich p\u0159irozenou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed. Byl jsem zv\u011bdav\u00fd, jestli onu pov\u011bstnou p\u0159\u00e1telskou pohostinnost Senegalc\u016f poc\u00edt\u00edm i na samotn\u00e9m jihov\u00fdchod\u011b zem\u011b v nejodlehlej\u0161\u00ed, nejdivo\u010dej\u0161\u00ed a nejkopcovat\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti Senegalu. Zem\u011b Bassari, jak se toto \u00fazem\u00ed naz\u00fdv\u00e1, je unik\u00e1tn\u00ed sv\u00fdmi domorod\u00fdmi kmeny, jejich\u017e p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00edci \u017eij\u00ed tradi\u010dn\u00edm zp\u016fsobem \u017eivota v symbi\u00f3ze s p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edm prost\u0159ed\u00edm. Pro unik\u00e1tn\u00ed a zachoval\u00e9 kultury bassarsk\u00fdch kmen\u016f je tato oblast od roku 2012 zaps\u00e1na na seznamu sv\u011btov\u00e9ho kulturn\u00edho d\u011bdictv\u00ed UNESCO. I sem samoz\u0159ejm\u011b pronikla s mision\u00e1\u0159i ob\u011b hlavn\u00ed senegalsk\u00e1 n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed a jednotliv\u00e9 kmeny, kter\u00fdch tu \u017eije v\u00edc ne\u017e dost, je ve v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed \u010di men\u0161\u00ed m\u00ed\u0159e p\u0159evzaly. Pr\u00e1v\u011b tady jsem cht\u011bl poznat s\u00edlu mision\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9ho sna\u017een\u00ed, kulturn\u00ed odli\u0161nosti a \u017eivotn\u00ed styl kmen\u016f obou zm\u00edn\u011bn\u00fdch n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00fdch skupin, tedy muslim\u016f a k\u0159es\u0165an\u016f. S radost\u00ed jsem proto p\u0159ijal pozv\u00e1n\u00ed do dvou naprosto odli\u0161n\u00fdch vesnic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Senegalsk\u00fdm nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm bodem je bezejmenn\u00fd vrcholek sahaj\u00edc\u00ed do v\u00fd\u0161ky 638 metr\u016f le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed na sou\u0159adnic\u00edch 12\u00b022\u2032 s. \u0161., 12\u00b032\u2032 z. d. P\u0159esto m\u011b kopcovit\u00fd r\u00e1z Zem\u011b Bassari, kde v dob\u011b m\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy vrcholilo obdob\u00ed sucha, dok\u00e1zal nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b potr\u00e1pit. Denn\u00ed teploty se v tomto \u010dase hrav\u011b vy\u0161plhaly a\u017e k 43 \u00b0C ve st\u00ednu. Zdej\u0161\u00ed vesnice jsou nav\u00edc p\u0159\u00edstupn\u00e9 pouze po strm\u00fdch n\u011bkolika kilometrov\u00fdch skalnat\u00fdch p\u011b\u0161in\u00e1ch. Cestou do prvn\u00ed z nich m\u011b tak p\u0159edb\u00edhaly nejenom m\u00edstn\u00ed d\u011bti, ale tak\u00e9 \u017eeny obt\u011b\u017ekan\u00e9 na z\u00e1dech batolaty, na hlav\u00e1ch kanystry s vodou \u010di ko\u0161i se zbo\u017e\u00edm. Jo a na noh\u00e1ch m\u011bly tu nejlep\u0161\u00ed turistickou obuv \u2013 \u0165apky! Dodnes maj\u00ed za sv\u00e9 v\u00fdkony m\u016fj obdiv. Po p\u0159\u00edchodu do vesnice Dande jsem se tradi\u010dn\u011b setkal s jej\u00edm n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edkem, kter\u00fd mou n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu musel nejprve posv\u011btit. K t\u00e9to domluv\u011b se po chv\u00edli p\u0159ipojil i m\u00edstn\u00ed im\u00e1m. Vesnice p\u0159ijala isl\u00e1m, tud\u00ed\u017e je jedn\u00edm z nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00edch p\u0159edstavitel\u016f i muslimsk\u00fd duchovn\u00ed. Jasn\u00e9 pok\u00fdvnut\u00ed obou hlav vesnice mi bylo dostate\u010dn\u00fdm sign\u00e1lem k tomu, abych se pono\u0159il do pozn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed zdej\u0161\u00edho tradi\u010dn\u00edho \u017eivota. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Na prvn\u00ed pohled bylo z\u0159ejm\u00e9, \u017ee ve vesnici vl\u00e1dne po\u0159\u00e1dek, jasn\u00e1 pravidla a tradi\u010dn\u00ed uspo\u0159\u00e1d\u00e1n\u00ed mu\u017esk\u00fdch a \u017eensk\u00fdch rol\u00ed. Dle pravidel isl\u00e1msk\u00e9 v\u00edry je p\u00e9\u010de o d\u011bti a dom\u00e1cnost hlavn\u00ed \u00falohou \u017een. \u017deny tak nemus\u00ed pracovat a vyd\u011bl\u00e1vat pen\u00edze, to je hlavn\u00ed \u00falohou mu\u017e\u016f. Senegal je v ot\u00e1zk\u00e1ch v\u00edry liber\u00e1ln\u00ed, a tak zde dodr\u017eov\u00e1n\u00ed pravidel nen\u00ed striktn\u00ed. Rawi u\u017e m\u00e1 d\u011bti velk\u00e9, p\u0159esto se cel\u00fd \u017eivot dle rodinn\u00e9 tradice v\u011bnuje hrn\u010d\u00ed\u0159in\u011b. R\u00e1d jsem si jej\u00ed \u0159emeslo vyzkou\u0161el tak\u00e9. Trp\u011bliv\u011b a velmi zru\u010dn\u011b mi Rawi ukazovala, jak zpracovat hl\u00ednu bez pou\u017eit\u00ed jedin\u00e9ho stroje. V\u0161echno hezky po staru a ru\u010dn\u011b. N\u00e1doby, kter\u00e9 pod jej\u00edma rukama vznikaly byly neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u011b pravideln\u00e9, skoro jako vyto\u010den\u00e9 na hrn\u010d\u00ed\u0159sk\u00e9m kruhu. O vysu\u0161en\u00ed a fin\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u00fdpal se nakonec postaralo nejprve slun\u00ed\u010dko, pot\u00e9 spaluj\u00edc\u00ed \u017e\u00e1r ohn\u011b. Ve vesnici jsem se tak\u00e9 pod\u00edval, jak m\u00edstn\u00ed \u017eeny va\u0159\u00ed. Zdej\u0161\u00ed kuchyn\u011b se skl\u00e1d\u00e1 z ohni\u0161t\u011b, kotl\u00edku a z\u00e1kladn\u00edho n\u00e1dob\u00ed. V\u00edc nen\u00ed pot\u0159eba. Chodil jsem pozorovat p\u0159i pr\u00e1ci krej\u010d\u00edho, d\u00edval se pod ruku truhl\u00e1\u0159i. V\u0161ichni m\u011b nechali bez probl\u00e9mu fotit a t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nevn\u00edmali moji p\u0159\u00edtomnost. Neodm\u00edtnul jsem ani mil\u00e9 pozv\u00e1n\u00ed do m\u00edstn\u00ed \u0161koly. Negramotnost je jedn\u00edm z nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edch probl\u00e9m\u016f Senegalu, a\u017e 2\/3 Senegalc\u016f toti\u017e neum\u00ed \u010d\u00edst ani ps\u00e1t. Nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed absence vzd\u011bl\u00e1n\u00ed p\u0159ipad\u00e1 na d\u00edvky. Od \u00fatl\u00e9ho v\u011bku pom\u00e1haj\u00ed v dom\u00e1cnosti a velice brzy je na n\u011b vyv\u00edjen tlak, aby zalo\u017eily vlastn\u00ed rodinu. Podle m\u00edstn\u00edch pom\u011br\u016f jsou d\u00edvky p\u0159ipraven\u00e9 na man\u017eelstv\u00ed u\u017e ve 14 letech. A p\u0159esto\u017ee jsou tyto brzk\u00e9 s\u0148atky z\u00e1konem zak\u00e1z\u00e1ny, v praxi se konaj\u00ed st\u00e1le.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

V Dande jsem se c\u00edtil nesm\u00edrn\u011b dob\u0159e. Vesni\u010dka byla \u010dist\u00e1, poklidn\u00e1, lid\u00e9 byli p\u0159\u00e1tel\u0161t\u00ed, chovali se ke mn\u011b s \u00factou, ochotou a otev\u0159enost\u00ed. Po celou dobu t\u00e9to pokojn\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy m\u011b u\u017e m\u016fj fotografick\u00fd duch t\u00e1hnul do Iwoli. Vesnice, jej\u00ed\u017e obyvatel\u00e9 se st\u00e1le hl\u00e1s\u00ed k tradi\u010dn\u00edmu animismu. Nejzachovalej\u0161\u00ed animistickou v\u00edru v kraji Bassari maj\u00ed Bedikov\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed do jihov\u00fdchodn\u00edho Senegalu p\u0159i\u0161li ve 13. stolet\u00ed. D\u00edky izolovanosti v podh\u016f\u0159\u00ed Fouta Djalon, a dle legend i s pomoc\u00ed lesn\u00edch duch\u016f, se tento kmen dok\u00e1zal state\u010dn\u011b ubr\u00e1nit nejen n\u00e1jezd\u016fm otrok\u00e1\u0159\u016f, ale tak\u00e9 snah\u00e1m o islamizaci. Bedikov\u00e9 z \u010d\u00e1sti podlehli a\u017e k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00fdm mision\u00e1\u0159\u016fm ve 20. stolet\u00ed. I za t\u00edmto kmenem jsem musel strm\u011b stoupat. S p\u0159\u00edchodem do vesnice mi popravd\u011b spadla \u010delist a m\u00e9 fotografick\u00e9 srd\u00e9\u010dko zaplesalo. Jako bych se ocitl v poh\u00e1dce! P\u0159esn\u011b takhle jsem si jako kluk p\u0159edstavoval domorod\u00e9 africk\u00e9 vesnice. Svou zachovalost\u00ed jsou nav\u00edc vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9. Typick\u00e9 jsou pro n\u011b mal\u00e9 domky s do\u0161kovou st\u0159echou.  N\u00e1\u010deln\u00edk m\u011b tady v\u0161ak p\u0159iv\u00edtal s drobnou ostrahou v oku, na co\u017e jsem z p\u0159ede\u0161l\u00e9 zku\u0161enosti nebyl zvykl\u00fd. Mo\u017en\u00e1 mu lesn\u00ed bohov\u00e9 radili, aby byl p\u0159ed b\u00edl\u00fdm mu\u017eem s \u010dernou krabi\u010dkou kolem krku na pozoru. Po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed ned\u016fv\u011bru se mi v\u0161ak poda\u0159ilo rozehnat a s n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edkem jsme si pl\u00e1cli. Bedikov\u00e9 jsou proslul\u00ed sv\u00fdmi inicia\u010dn\u00edmi ritu\u00e1ly chlapc\u016f, kter\u00e9 prob\u00edhaj\u00ed p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v pr\u016fb\u011bhu kv\u011btna. Do vesnice jsem p\u0159i\u0161el sice v druh\u00e9 polovin\u011b \u010dervna, ale p\u0159esto tu pr\u00e1v\u011b jeden ritu\u00e1l prob\u00edhal.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Zasv\u011bcen\u00ed chlapc\u016f v mu\u017ee trv\u00e1 i \u0161est m\u011bs\u00edc\u016f a v pr\u016fb\u011bhu tohoto \u010dasu chlapci a jejich pr\u016fvodci vykon\u00e1vaj\u00ed celou \u0159adu ritu\u00e1l\u016f a ceremoni\u00ed. Mnoh\u00e9 z nich prob\u00edhaj\u00ed v lese s pomoc\u00ed lesn\u00edch boh\u016f, kter\u00fdm Bedikov\u00e9 p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161ej\u00ed zv\u00ed\u0159ec\u00ed ob\u011btiny. V dob\u011b m\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy po vesnici b\u011bhali postavy cel\u00e9 zahalen\u00e9 do spleten\u00fdch vl\u00e1ken k\u016fry a list\u00ed. Kankouran, tak se t\u00e9to z\u00e1hadn\u00e9 maskovan\u00e9 postav\u011b \u0159\u00edk\u00e1. Masky pob\u00edhali sem a tam a bez jak\u00e9hokoliv ostychu \u0161lehali proutkem p\u0159es nohy ka\u017ed\u00e9ho, koho pr\u00e1v\u011b potkali. Povinn\u00e9 \u0161lehnut\u00ed dostali tak\u00e9 v\u0161ichni letos ob\u0159ezan\u00ed chlapci, kte\u0159\u00ed proch\u00e1zeli iniciac\u00ed. Bylo mi vysv\u011btleno, \u017ee v t\u00e9to vesnici Bedikov\u00e9 v\u011b\u0159\u00ed, \u017ee \u0161lehnut\u00ed prutem o\u010di\u0161\u0165uje t\u011blo po zdravotn\u00ed i duchovn\u00ed str\u00e1nce. Iniciovan\u00fdm chlapc\u016fm nav\u00edc p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed ochrann\u00e9 kouzlo proti zl\u00fdm sil\u00e1m. No, mysl\u00edm, \u017ee zdej\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9 budou zdrav\u00ed hodn\u011b a dlouho. Zaujalo m\u011b, \u017ee jedin\u00e9, co ve vesnici odkazuje na k\u0159es\u0165anskou v\u00edru je ch\u00fd\u0161e s k\u0159\u00ed\u017eem na st\u0159e\u0161e, jak\u00fdsi kostel. Tak trochu jsem za\u010dal Bediky podez\u0159\u00edvat, \u017ee k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed p\u0159ijali jen na oko, aby m\u011bli kone\u010dn\u011b od mision\u00e1\u0159\u016f klid. Ve vesnici po cel\u00fd rok vl\u00e1dne animistick\u00e1 magick\u00e1 energie a rozervanost. Po poledni tak vzali p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm mu\u017ei oslavy a p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm palmov\u00e9 v\u00edno p\u0159ipraven\u00e9 k t\u00e9to ceremonii masek a\u017e p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 zhurta.   Po kopc\u00edch Zem\u011b Bassari je rozeseto hned n\u011bkolik bedick\u00fdch vesni\u010dek. Kdy\u017e se n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edk sousedn\u00ed vesnice Ethiolo dozv\u011bd\u011bl o m\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edtomnosti, pozval m\u011b do jeho vesnice na velkou sl\u00e1vu. Konala se za t\u00fdden. Nev\u00e1hal jsem ani minutu a sv\u016fj pobyt v t\u00e9to \u010d\u00e1sti Senegalu jsem si o dal\u0161\u00edch n\u011bkolik dn\u00ed prodlou\u017eil. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Ve vesnici Ethiolo u\u017e se v\u0161ichni na velk\u00fd den chystali n\u011bkolik dn\u00ed. Zapl\u00e9tali speci\u00e1ln\u00ed kor\u00e1lkov\u00e9 ozdoby, va\u0159ili a sma\u017eili vybran\u00e9 j\u00eddlo, p\u0159ipravovalo se i v\u00edno z medu a prosa\u2026 A z\u00e1soby to byly po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9. Inicia\u010dn\u00edmi ritu\u00e1ly proch\u00e1zej\u00ed v tomto kraji nejenom chlapci, ale tak\u00e9 \u017eeny. Jednou za p\u011bt let prob\u00edh\u00e1 inicia\u010dn\u00ed ceremonie pro d\u00e1my ve v\u011bku od 25ti do 30ti let. P\u0159ed zah\u00e1jen\u00edm n\u011bkolikadenn\u00edch oslav se v Ethiolo sch\u00e1zeli lid\u00e9 z cel\u00e9ho \u0161irok\u00e9ho okol\u00ed. Nikdo si toti\u017e necht\u011bl nechat tuto ojedin\u011blou slavnost uj\u00edt. V den D \u010dasn\u011b z r\u00e1na se za\u010daly iniciovan\u00e9 \u017eeny strojit do sv\u00fdch kroj\u016f, jejich\u017e sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed jsou tradi\u010dn\u011b kor\u00e1lky. Symbolizuj\u00ed zralost, moudrost a rozvoj. \u010c\u00edm je \u017eena star\u0161\u00ed, t\u00edm jej\u00ed kor\u00e1lky nab\u00fdvaj\u00ed na d\u016fle\u017eitosti. Iniciace za\u010dala na prostranstv\u00ed ve st\u0159edu vesnice, kde \u017eeny za\u010daly tan\u010dit. Tanec to byl velmi \u00fasporn\u00fd, ale \u017eeny jako by p\u0159esto uvrhal do transu. Mu\u017ei p\u0159evle\u010den\u00ed za lesn\u00ed duchy tan\u010dili se \u017eenami jako jejich ochr\u00e1nci. Tanec trval dobr\u00e9 dv\u011b hodiny, ale jakmile jej tane\u010dnice dokon\u010dily, mohli na \u0159adu p\u0159ij\u00edt bujar\u00e9 oslavy. Byl jsem p\u0159ekvapen\u00fd, jak se nejenom mlad\u00ed, ale i sta\u0159\u00ed po v\u00ednu odv\u00e1zali. Bedikov\u00e9 jsou velmi \u017eivo\u010di\u0161n\u00e9 povahy!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

V zemi Bassari jsem nav\u0161t\u00edvil dva r\u016fzn\u00e9 sv\u011bty, s r\u016fzn\u00fdmi lidmi a zvyklostmi, s r\u016fznou atmosf\u00e9rou, s r\u016fzn\u00fdmi pohledy na boha i \u017eivot. Oba kmeny m\u011b p\u0159ijali p\u0159\u00e1telsky a nechali m\u011b nahl\u00e9dnout do jejich kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch sv\u011bt\u016f, za co\u017e jsem jim dodnes vd\u011b\u010dn\u00fd. I v zemi Bassari vl\u00e1dne teranga,
i kdy\u017e lesn\u00ed duchov\u00e9 si sv\u016fj sv\u011bt dodnes do dnes chr\u00e1n\u00ed. Za to jsem moc r\u00e1d. A co napsat z\u00e1v\u011brem? Snad jen to, \u017ee ve sv\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edv\u011btivosti, p\u0159\u00e1telskosti a otev\u0159enosti m\u011b Senegal velmi mile p\u0159ekvapil a inspiroval do m\u00e9ho vlastn\u00edho \u017eivota. Pokud budete m\u00edt n\u011bkdy mo\u017enost, ur\u010dit\u011b se do tohoto magick\u00e9ho koutu sv\u011bta vypravte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":7423,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7189","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7189","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7189"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7189\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7508,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7189\/revisions\/7508"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7423"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7189"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7189"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7189"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}