{"id":7169,"date":"2020-01-01T00:36:00","date_gmt":"2019-12-31T23:36:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/?p=7169"},"modified":"2020-12-04T10:05:03","modified_gmt":"2020-12-04T09:05:03","slug":"mokenove-ti-co-se-plavi-po-mori","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/2020\/01\/01\/mokenove-ti-co-se-plavi-po-mori\/","title":{"rendered":"TI, CO SE PLAV\u00cd PO MO\u0158I"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Publikov\u00e1no v magaz\u00ednu Koktejl \u010d\u00edslo 01, rok 2020<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ve Svazov\u00e9 republice Myanmar, chcete-li v Barm\u011b, ofici\u00e1ln\u011b \u017eije na p\u011btapades\u00e1t mili\u00f3n\u016f lid\u00ed. Sedmdes\u00e1t procent jsou etni\u010dt\u00ed Barm\u00e1nci, zbyl\u00e9 obyvatelstvo tvo\u0159\u00ed p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00edci v\u00edce ne\u017e sto t\u0159iceti r\u016fzn\u00fdch etnick\u00fdch skupin. Nejpo\u010detn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed jsou \u0160anov\u00e9, Karenov\u00e9, Arakanci, \u010cjinov\u00e9 a Monov\u00e9. Mimo \u00fa\u0159edn\u00ed z\u00e1znamy vy\u010dn\u00edvaj\u00ed Mokenov\u00e9. Tito \u010dlenov\u00e9 prad\u00e1vn\u00e9ho ko\u010dovn\u00e9ho kmene p\u0159ipluli na sv\u00fdch lod\u00edch z ji\u017en\u00ed \u010c\u00edny asi p\u0159ed \u010dty\u0159mi tis\u00edci lety a rozpt\u00fdlili se po ostrovech Andamansk\u00e9ho mo\u0159e mezi Barmou a Thajskem. Kv\u016fli ko\u010dovn\u00e9mu a svobodn\u00e9mu zp\u016fsobu \u017eivota se jim od prad\u00e1vna \u010dasto p\u0159ezd\u00edv\u00e1 mo\u0159\u0161t\u00ed cik\u00e1ni (Sea gypsies)<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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VYSN\u011aN\u00c1 CESTA<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mokenov\u00e9, v\u00a0Myanmaru zn\u00e1m\u00ed jako Soloni, nejsou ofici\u00e1ln\u00edmi obyvateli \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9ho st\u00e1tu – nemaj\u00ed tak st\u00e1tn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161nost, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 v\u00fdhody, ani n\u00e1rok na \u00fazem\u00ed, kter\u00e9 ob\u00fdvaj\u00ed. Podle odhad\u016f jich zb\u00fdvaj\u00ed posledn\u00ed t\u0159i tis\u00edce. Od prvn\u00ed chv\u00edle, kdy jsme se rozhodli pro cestu do Myanmaru, byl hlavn\u00ed c\u00edl na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdpravy jasn\u00fd. Co bylo ale u\u017e jasn\u00e9 m\u00e9n\u011b, jak se k\u00a0t\u00e9to austron\u00e9sk\u00e9 etnick\u00e9 skupin\u011b, jej\u00ed\u017e \u017eivot je \u00fazce spjat s\u00a0mo\u0159em a ko\u010dov\u00e1n\u00edm, dostaneme.\u00a0 Po n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b myanmarsk\u00e9ho severu a nespo\u010dtu zdej\u0161\u00edch chr\u00e1m\u016f jsme se kone\u010dn\u011b vypravili na vysn\u011bn\u00fd jih t\u00e9to dobrosrde\u010dn\u00e9 zem\u011b. I kdy\u017e Myanmar proch\u00e1z\u00ed postupnou demokratizac\u00ed a mnoh\u00e9 se za posledn\u00ed roky zm\u011bnilo, na chodu zem\u011b se i nad\u00e1le pod\u00edl\u00ed vojensk\u00e1 junta. Jeliko\u017e jsme se rozhodli nav\u0161t\u00edvit a zdokumentovat m\u00edsto cizinc\u016fm t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 zapov\u011bzen\u00e9, bylo n\u00e1m jasn\u00e9, \u017ee probl\u00e9m\u016fm s\u00a0vl\u00e1dn\u00edmi slo\u017ekami se na jihu Myanmaru nevyhneme. Mokenov\u00e9 se toti\u017e plav\u00ed v\u00a0bezprost\u0159edn\u00ed bl\u00edzkosti Mergujsk\u00e9ho souostrov\u00ed, tedy ve vojensky\u00a0pe\u010dliv\u011b st\u0159e\u017een\u00e9m \u00fazem\u00ed. Je\u0161t\u011b doned\u00e1vna byla cel\u00e1 tato oblast zcela uzav\u0159ena a dnes je zp\u0159\u00edstupn\u011bna hlavn\u011b mezin\u00e1rodn\u00edm v\u011bdc\u016fm.\u00a0 Okam\u017eit\u011b po na\u0161em p\u0159\u00edjezdu do m\u011bste\u010dka Myeik, jsme za\u010dali sb\u00edrat informace. Na na\u0161e v\u0161ete\u010dn\u00e9 dotazy na toto t\u00e9ma n\u00e1m m\u00edstn\u00ed odpov\u00eddali shodn\u011b –\u00a0 \u017ee naj\u00edt Mokeny \u017eij\u00edc\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b tradi\u010dn\u00edm zp\u016fsobem \u017eivota na mo\u0159i je v\u00a0sou\u010dasnosti t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nemo\u017en\u00e9, \u017ee do oblasti Mergujsk\u00e9ho souostrov\u00ed bez vojensk\u00e9ho doprovodu nem\u016f\u017eeme a \u017ee povolen\u00e9 jsou pouze vl\u00e1dou organizovan\u00e9 plavby v\u00a0cen\u011b okolo p\u011bti set americk\u00fdch dolar\u016f za osobu a den. Spat\u0159it nom\u00e1dy jsme si opravdu moc p\u0159\u00e1li. Necht\u011bli jsme ale ani vojensk\u00fd doprovod a ani se vysn\u011bn\u00e9ho c\u00edle vzd\u00e1t. I p\u0159es v\u0161echny \u0161patn\u00e9 zpr\u00e1vy se na n\u00e1s v\u00a0sousedn\u00ed vesnici nakonec usm\u00e1lo \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed. Poda\u0159ilo se n\u00e1m p\u0159emluvit m\u00edstn\u00edho starostu i arm\u00e1dn\u00edho velitele, aby n\u00e1m pomohli. Starosta n\u00e1m po zdlouhav\u00fdch vyjedn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edch vyp\u016fj\u010dil lo\u010f. A vojensk\u00fd velitel? Ten za drobnou odm\u011bnu, \u0159ekn\u011bme, p\u0159iv\u0159el oko. Jak se \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, risk je zisk, a tak jsme i za cenu mo\u017en\u00fdch nep\u0159\u00edjemnost\u00ed s tam\u011bj\u0161\u00ed vl\u00e1dou na vlastn\u00ed p\u011bst vyrazili hledat mo\u0159sk\u00e9 cik\u00e1ny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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RAJSK\u00c9 OSTROVY<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mergujsk\u00e9 souostrov\u00ed tvo\u0159\u00ed v\u00edce ne\u017e 800 ostrov\u016f a skalisek, kter\u00e1 se t\u00e1hnou pod\u00e9l Tenasserimsk\u00e9ho pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed na jihu Myanmaru nedaleko hranic s\u00a0Thajskem. Jako lusknut\u00edm prstu jsme se ocitli v p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edm r\u00e1ji. S otev\u0159enou pusou jsme \u017easli nad pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u011b azurov\u00fdm mo\u0159em, opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fdmi pl\u00e1\u017eemi a neprostupnou d\u017eungl\u00ed. Mokenov\u00e9 jsou jedin\u00fdmi obyvateli n\u011bkolika zdej\u0161\u00edch ostrov\u016f. Mnoho rodin ji\u017e v\u0161ak p\u016fvodn\u00edm ko\u010dovn\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem \u017eivota ne\u017eije. Vl\u00e1da, a to jak v\u00a0Myanmaru, tak v\u00a0Thajsku, kudy se Mokenov\u00e9 tak\u00e9 plav\u00ed, se sna\u017e\u00ed tuto kulturu p\u0159ipoutat k\u00a0pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, d\u011bti vzd\u011bl\u00e1vat ve \u0161kol\u00e1ch a socializovat je s\u00a0tam\u011bj\u0161\u00ed kulturou a \u017eit\u00edm. Moken (Maw Ken)<\/em> v\u00a0p\u0159ekladu znamen\u00e1 \u201eplav\u00edc\u00ed se po mo\u0159i\u201c nebo tak\u00e9 \u201edo vody pono\u0159en\u00fd\u201c. V\u00a0d\u00e1vn\u00fdch dob\u00e1ch tito lid\u00e9 neodplouvali na mo\u0159e, ale v\u00a0obdob\u00ed de\u0161\u0165\u016f se z\u00a0mo\u0159e vraceli na b\u0159eh. V\u00a0sou\u010dasn\u00e9 dob\u011b jsou dr\u017eeni p\u0159i pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed a \u017eij\u00ed v\u00a0domc\u00edch na k\u016flech v mal\u00fdch ryb\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdch osad\u00e1ch na pl\u00e1\u017e\u00edch. Kabangy, d\u00e1vn\u00e9 symboly svobody, byly jejich tradi\u010dn\u00ed obytn\u00e9 lod\u011b a dopravn\u00ed prost\u0159edek v\u00a0jednom. Mokenov\u00e9 je vyr\u00e1b\u011bli ru\u010dn\u011b z\u00a0lehk\u00e9ho d\u0159eva. Mergujsk\u00e9 souostrov\u00ed je sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku, kter\u00fd k\u00e1cen\u00ed jak\u00e9hokoliv d\u0159eva zakazuje. Mokenov\u00e9 tak p\u0159i\u0161li o mo\u017enost stav\u011bn\u00ed sv\u00fdch tradi\u010dn\u00edch hausbot\u016f. I d\u00edky t\u011bmto opat\u0159en\u00edm se kultura mo\u0159sk\u00fdch cik\u00e1n\u016f dost\u00e1v\u00e1 pod \u010d\u00edm d\u00e1l v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed tlak. S\u00a0rozvojem turistick\u00e9ho ruchu p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00ed o \u00fazem\u00ed, kter\u00e1 po stalet\u00ed ob\u00fdvali. V Thajsku vl\u00e1da dokonce Mokeny p\u0159est\u011bhovala do vnitrozem\u00ed, kde ztr\u00e1c\u00ed kontakt s\u00a0tradicemi a postupn\u011b spl\u00fdvaj\u00ed s\u00a0b\u011b\u017en\u00fdmi obyvateli. Velk\u00fdm probl\u00e9mem je i komer\u010dn\u00ed rybolov, kter\u00fd pusto\u0161\u00ed Andamansk\u00e9 mo\u0159e a bere nom\u00e1d\u016fm p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost ob\u017eivy. V\u011bdomosti a kultura tohoto etnika se tak pomalu z\u00a0na\u0161eho sv\u011bta vytr\u00e1cej\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/strong>DEN S VELK\u00ddM \u201eD\u201c<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Naj\u00edt rodinu, \u017eij\u00edc\u00ed na mo\u0159i, bylo p\u011bkn\u00fdm o\u0159\u00ed\u0161kem. V\u00a0pr\u016fb\u011bhu prvn\u00edho dne, kdy jsme kli\u010dkovali mezi ostrovy, jsme \u017e\u00e1dnou takovou nena\u0161li. V\u00a0ryb\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 osad\u011b, kde jsme zakotvili na sva\u010dinu, n\u00e1m ale m\u00edstn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 dali nad\u011bji. Jedna z\u00a0takov\u00fdch tradi\u010dn\u011b \u017eij\u00edc\u00edch rodin, se tu pr\u00fd v\u010dera uk\u00e1zala. Kdy\u017e budeme pr\u00fd dob\u0159e hledat, mohli bychom ji potkat. V\u00a0Andamansk\u00e9m mo\u0159i jsme proto hledali a\u017e do ve\u010dera. R\u00e1no moud\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed ve\u010dera, a tak s\u00a0prvn\u00edmi hv\u011bzdami na obloze douf\u00e1me, \u017ee druh\u00fd den se na n\u00e1s \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed skute\u010dn\u011b usm\u011bje. Na Mokeny mysl\u00edme i ve chv\u00edli, kdy uleh\u00e1me. Ve sv\u00e9 nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed knize Alchymista brazilsk\u00fd spisovatel Paulo Coelho p\u00ed\u0161e: \u201e<\/em><\/strong>Kdy\u017e n\u011bco opravdu chce\u0161, cel\u00fd vesm\u00edr se spoj\u00ed, abys to mohl uskute\u010dnit.\u201c<\/em> A my si ten ve\u010der p\u0159\u00e1li a cht\u011bli asi moc dob\u0159e, proto\u017ee hned druh\u00fd den r\u00e1no, jsme Mokeny, kter\u00e9 jsme si je\u0161t\u011b v\u00a0\u010cech\u00e1ch doslova vysnili, skute\u010dn\u011b v\u00a0d\u00e1li zahl\u00e9dli. Poznali jsme je podle n\u011bkolika mal\u00fdch lodi\u010dek zap\u0159a\u017een\u00fdch za velkou lod\u00ed, co\u017e je pro Mokeny typick\u00e9. P\u0159ipluli jsme k\u00a0rodin\u011b, jak nejrychleji to \u0161lo. Oni sice nerozum\u011bli n\u00e1m, my nerozum\u011bli jim, ale i p\u0159es jazykovou bari\u00e9ru jsme se na v\u0161em dok\u00e1zali domluvit. Hlava rodiny, statn\u00fd \u0161edes\u00e1tn\u00edk, n\u00e1s po chv\u00edli na jejich lo\u010f pozval.\u00a0Den na lodi za\u010dal rodinnou pozdn\u00ed sn\u00eddan\u00ed, hned pot\u00e9 jsme se p\u0159esunuli na m\u00edsto vhodn\u00e9 k\u00a0lovu. \u017divot mo\u0159sk\u00fdch cik\u00e1n\u016f je bezprost\u0159edn\u011b spojen s\u00a0vodou, nen\u00ed proto divu, \u017ee jsou bez v\u00fdjimky skv\u011bl\u00fdmi pot\u00e1p\u011b\u010di a tak\u00e9 lovci. Dok\u00e1\u017eou se pono\u0159it do hloubky p\u0159es t\u0159icet metr\u016f a vydr\u017eet bez kysl\u00edku d\u00e9le ne\u017e p\u011bt minut. \u0158\u00edk\u00e1 se, \u017ee mokensk\u00e9 d\u011bti um\u00ed d\u0159\u00edv plavat ne\u017e chodit. V\u011bdeck\u00e9 studie dokonce prok\u00e1zaly, \u017ee se Mokenov\u00e9 v\u00a0pr\u016fb\u011bhu evoluce p\u0159izp\u016fsobili \u017eivotn\u00edm podm\u00ednk\u00e1m, ve kter\u00fdch po tis\u00edce let \u017eij\u00ed. Dok\u00e1\u017eou nap\u0159\u00edklad z\u00fa\u017eit panenky o 22 % v\u00edc ne\u017e ostatn\u00ed lid\u00e9, d\u00edky \u010demu\u017e vid\u00ed pod vodou dva kr\u00e1t l\u00e9pe. Maj\u00ed fantasticky propracovan\u00e9 pohyby nejen pro plav\u00e1n\u00ed, ale i pro lov s\u00a0harpunou. Ryby a mo\u0159sk\u00e9 plody lov\u00ed nejenom v\u00a0tropick\u00fdch vod\u00e1ch. \u010cas od \u010dasu se \u017eeny vydaj\u00ed i na n\u011bkterou z\u00a0m\u00edstn\u00edch pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed, kde s\u00a0pomoc\u00ed klac\u00edku doluj\u00ed ml\u017ee zavrtan\u00e9 do b\u011blav\u00e9ho p\u00edsku. Ani o tento lov jsme nebyli ochuzeni. Obsah ko\u0161\u00edku sice nevypadal ani trochu l\u00e1kav\u011b, ale v\u011b\u0159te, nebo ne, po usma\u017een\u00ed chutnali \u201e\u010derv\u00edci\u201c i p\u0159es k\u0159upaj\u00edc\u00ed p\u00edsek mezi zuby skv\u011ble.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/strong>VLNA, KTER\u00c1 PO\u017d\u00cdR\u00c1 LIDI<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lo\u010f je pro mo\u0159sk\u00e9 cik\u00e1ny skute\u010dn\u011b v\u0161\u00edm, tedy i kuchyn\u00ed, ve kter\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed \u017eeny kouzl\u00ed jednu dobrotu za druhou. Co jsme z\u00a0\u00falovku k\u00a0ob\u011bdu nesn\u011bdli, sm\u011bn\u00ed Mokenov\u00e9 pozd\u011bji na sou\u0161i za naftu, r\u00fd\u017ei \u010di pot\u0159ebn\u00e9 vybaven\u00ed. Po j\u00eddle na lodi zavl\u00e1dla pohoda a klid. Nikdo v\u00a0t\u011bchto kon\u010din\u00e1ch nikam nesp\u011bch\u00e1, nikdo se nikam ne\u017eene. Lid\u00e9 v\u00a0pr\u016fb\u011bhu dne nejenom lov\u00ed, j\u00ed a odpo\u010d\u00edvaj\u00ed, ale tak\u00e9 si pov\u00eddaj\u00ed, sm\u011bj\u00ed se, maj\u00ed \u010das jeden na druh\u00e9ho i na rodinou soudr\u017enost. A tak jsme i my m\u011bli dostatek \u010dasu a klidu na p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161len\u00ed.\u00a0Dosp\u011bl\u00ed Mokenov\u00e9 jsou negramotn\u00ed. Maj\u00ed sv\u016fj vlastn\u00ed jazyk, kter\u00fd ale nem\u00e1 p\u00edsemnou podobu. Nikdy ji na nic nepot\u0159ebovali. Ve\u0161ker\u00e9 sv\u00e9 v\u011bdomosti, um, legendy a tradice si mo\u0159\u0161t\u00ed cik\u00e1ni p\u0159ed\u00e1vaj\u00ed \u00fastn\u011b z\u00a0generace na generaci. Odhady v\u0161ak \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed, \u017ee dne\u0161n\u00ed mokensk\u00e9 d\u011bti jsou mo\u017en\u00e1 posledn\u00ed generac\u00ed tohoto etnika, kter\u00e1 bude zn\u00e1t a uct\u00edvat tradice d\u00e1vn\u00fdch p\u0159edk\u016f. Do celosv\u011btov\u00e9ho pov\u011bdom\u00ed se Mokenov\u00e9 dostali v\u00a0roce 2004 po zni\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed vln\u011b tsunami, kter\u00e1 zas\u00e1hla pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Andamansk\u00e9ho mo\u0159e a\u017e po Sr\u00ed Lanku. Z moudrosti sv\u00fdch p\u0159edk\u016f v\u0161ichni dob\u0159e poznali znamen\u00ed, kter\u00e1 jim vyslala sama p\u0159\u00edroda, \u017ee p\u0159ijde \u201elaboon\u201c (vlna, kter\u00e1 po\u017e\u00edr\u00e1 lidi)<\/em>. Mokenov\u00e9 proto utekli do bezpe\u010dn\u00fdch hor. Tsunami tenkr\u00e1t v\u00a0Asii zabila t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 \u010dtvrt miion\u016f lid\u00ed. Mo\u0159\u0161t\u00ed cik\u00e1ni p\u0159e\u017eili v\u0161ichni. Dodnes je n\u00e1m l\u00edto, \u017ee i t\u011bmto srde\u010dn\u00fdm, uctiv\u00fdm a pokorn\u00fdm lidem hroz\u00ed ztr\u00e1ta jejich prad\u00e1vn\u00e9 identity. Na lodi uprost\u0159ed mo\u0159e jsme si vzpomn\u011bli na slova ochr\u00e1nce p\u0159\u00edrody a fotografa Thoma Henleyho. \u0158\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee \u201eKdy\u017e zanikne druh, ztrat\u00edme jednu z\u00a0mo\u017enost\u00ed p\u0159\u00edrody. A Kdy\u017e zanikne jeden z\u00a0jazyk\u016f a kultur, ztrat\u00edme \u010d\u00e1st lidsk\u00e9 du\u0161e a mysli.\u201c A\u017e bude posledn\u00ed Moken p\u0159ipout\u00e1n k\u00a0zemi, a\u017e bude posledn\u00ed karensk\u00e9 \u017een\u011b z\u00a0krku sebr\u00e1na jej\u00ed obru\u010d, nebo a\u017e zem\u0159e posledn\u00ed pavou\u010d\u00ed \u017eena, zmiz\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti z\u00a0na\u0161\u00ed kolektivn\u00ed du\u0161e.\u00a0Na \u010das str\u00e1ven\u00fd s\u00a0Mokeny nikdy nezapomeneme. N\u00e1\u0161 posledn\u00ed den s\u00a0nimi se v\u0161ak nach\u00fdlil ke konci a my jsme s neutuchaj\u00edc\u00edm \u00fa\u017easem je\u0161t\u011b pozorovali d\u011bn\u00ed na lodi. Po cel\u00fd \u010das byli Mokenov\u00e9 skv\u011bl\u00ed, p\u0159\u00e1tel\u0161t\u00ed, uk\u00e1zali n\u00e1m sv\u016fj sv\u011bt, rozd\u011blili se s\u00a0n\u00e1mi o j\u00eddlo, pit\u00ed i lo\u017ee. K\u00fdvnut\u00edm hlavy jsme si s\u00a0rodinkou mo\u0159sk\u00fdch nom\u00e1d\u016f naposledy pop\u0159\u00e1li dobrou noc a pak u\u017e jsme v\u0161ichni jenom klidn\u011b spali a spali, klidn\u00e9 mo\u0159e n\u00e1s houpalo a hv\u011bzdn\u00e1 obloha nad n\u00e1mi z\u00e1\u0159ila a st\u0159e\u017eila na\u0161e mo\u0159sk\u00e9 sny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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