{"id":7147,"date":"2019-11-03T00:06:50","date_gmt":"2019-11-02T23:06:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/?p=7147"},"modified":"2020-12-04T10:05:43","modified_gmt":"2020-12-04T09:05:43","slug":"hadi-ostrov-gorgona","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/2019\/11\/03\/hadi-ostrov-gorgona\/","title":{"rendered":"HAD\u00cd OSTROV GORGONA"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Magaz\u00edn Koktejl, \u010d\u00edslo 12, rok 2019<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jako jedin\u00e1 ze zem\u00ed Ji\u017en\u00ed Ameriky le\u017e\u00ed Kolumbie mezi dv\u011bma oce\u00e1ny \u2013 z\u00e1padn\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed om\u00fdv\u00e1 oce\u00e1n Tich\u00fd, to severn\u00ed Atlantik. K pevninsk\u00e9 Kolumbii tak pat\u0159\u00ed i n\u011bkolik ostrov\u016f, kter\u00e9 jsou, stejn\u011b jako cel\u00e1 tato zem\u011b, v mnoh\u00e9m neoby\u010dejn\u00e9. My si k pr\u016fzkumu vybrali ostrov Gorgona. U\u017e jeho samotn\u00e1 p\u0159ezd\u00edvka \u201ehad\u00ed ostrov\u201c v n\u00e1s vzbuzuje p\u0159edstavy nev\u0161edn\u00edho dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed.    <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Gorgona le\u017e\u00ed v Tich\u00e9m oce\u00e1nu p\u011btat\u0159icet kilometr\u016f od kolumbijsk\u00e9ho pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed. Cesta sem je komplikovan\u00e1 a vy\u017eaduje kombinaci hned n\u011bkolika dopravn\u00edch prost\u0159edk\u016f. \u010c\u00e1st cesty mus\u00edme zdolat ter\u00e9nn\u00edm autem, p\u0159epravu po m\u011bstech zaji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed zde obl\u00edben\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 tuk tuky. Do v\u00fdchoz\u00edho bodu, kter\u00fdm je pob\u0159e\u017en\u00ed m\u011bste\u010dko Guapi, se jinak, ne\u017e letadlem nedostaneme. Je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed nasednut\u00edm do ok\u0159\u00eddlen\u00e9ho stroje jsme na mal\u00e9m leti\u0161ti uprost\u0159ed d\u017eungle intuitivn\u011b vyslali p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed \u0161\u0165astn\u00e9 cesty k panence Marii, kter\u00e1 v prosklen\u00e9 om\u0161el\u00e9 m\u00edstnosti naz\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed se odletov\u00e1 hala nemohla chyb\u011bt. Uk\u00e1zalo se, \u017ee to nebylo zas a\u017e tak od v\u011bci. I kdy\u017e jsme se na cest\u00e1ch ji\u017e mnohokr\u00e1t p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dili, \u017ee izolepou skute\u010dn\u011b oprav\u00edme v\u0161e, u tam\u011bj\u0161\u00edho letadla jsme si t\u00edm tak \u00fapln\u011b jist\u00ed nebyli. V Guapi p\u0159ist\u00e1v\u00e1me bez komplikac\u00ed. Ufff.  Posledn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st cesty zdol\u00e1v\u00e1me lod\u00ed za 2 hodiny.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/strong>Dramatick\u00e1 historie<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

La Isla Gorgona m\u00e1 velmi bohatou a dramatickou historii, jej\u00ed\u017e po\u010d\u00e1tky se dle dochovan\u00fdch pramen\u016f datuj\u00ed do 13. stolet\u00ed p\u0159ed Kristem. Z t\u00e9 doby poch\u00e1z\u00ed archeologick\u00e1 nalezi\u0161t\u011b kultury Tumaco-La Tolita. D\u00e1le byly na ostrov\u011b nalezeny archeologick\u00e9 stopy z 13. stolet\u00ed ji\u017e na\u0161eho letopo\u010dtu pat\u0159\u00edc\u00ed kolumbijsk\u00e9mu kmeni Kuna z Urab\u00e9 a panamsk\u00e9mu kmeni San Blas. Pro Evropany ostrov objevil v roce 1524 Diego de Almagro, kter\u00fd jej pojmenoval San Felipe. Tento n\u00e1zev ale ostrovu dlouho nevydr\u017eel. O t\u0159i roky pozd\u011bji jej toti\u017e p\u0159ejmenoval \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00fd conquistador Francizco Pizzaro Gonz\u00e1lez, kter\u00fd zde i s pos\u00e1dkou \u010d\u00edtaj\u00edc\u00ed 120 mu\u017e\u016f sedm m\u011bs\u00edc\u016f strategicky vy\u010dk\u00e1val na dostate\u010dn\u00e9 vybaven\u00ed k poko\u0159en\u00ed \u0158\u00ed\u0161e Ink\u016f. Tato zast\u00e1vka v\u0161ak m\u011bla zcela jin\u00fd pr\u016fb\u011bh, ne\u017e Pizzaro zcela jist\u011b zam\u00fd\u0161lel. B\u011bhem t\u00e9to doby toti\u017e kapit\u00e1novi zem\u0159elo hned 87 mu\u017e\u016f, a to bu\u010f vlivem tropick\u00e9 nemoci, nej\u010dast\u011bji v\u0161ak po had\u00edm u\u0161tknut\u00ed. S\u00e1m Pizzaro se pr\u00fd m\u00e1lem pom\u00e1tl, t\u0159eba jen z toho, \u017ee dle jeho slov bylo na ostrov\u011b tolik jedovat\u00fdch had\u016f, \u017ee se zem\u011b pod nohama vlnila. Pizzaro proto ozna\u010dil ostrov za pekeln\u00e9 m\u00edsto a p\u0159ipodobnil jej Gorgon\u00e1m \u2013 tedy t\u0159em ohavn\u00fdm mytologick\u00fdm dcer\u00e1m mo\u0159sk\u00fdch boh\u016f Fork\u00fdna a K\u00e9ty, kter\u00fdm se na hlav\u00e1ch nam\u00edsto vlas\u016f sv\u00edjeli hadi. P\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edme, jak hr\u016fzn\u00e9 chv\u00edle tu Pizzaro asi musel za\u017e\u00edt! Ostrov, bohat\u00fd na sladkou vodu a cenn\u00e9 d\u0159evo i p\u0159esto d\u00e1l slou\u017eil jako z\u00e1sobovac\u00ed stanice pro lod\u011b na cest\u011b z Panamy do Peru a zp\u011bt. Toto v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 strategick\u00e9 m\u00edsto vyu\u017e\u00edvali hlavn\u011b pir\u00e1ti a korz\u00e1\u0159i br\u00e1zd\u00edc\u00ed zdej\u0161\u00ed vody, jako nap\u0159\u00edklad Bartholomew Sharp, Woodes Rogers nebo William Dampier. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ostrov jako z hororu<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

D\u016fvod\u016f, pro\u010d jsme p\u0159ipluli na Gorgonu je mnoho. Ostrov trvale nikdo neob\u00fdv\u00e1, z\u00e1zem\u00ed tu tak maj\u00ed jen spr\u00e1vci zdej\u0161\u00edho n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku, kte\u0159\u00ed se sna\u017e\u00ed v\u00a0mal\u00e9 m\u00ed\u0159e o ekoturistiku. Hned po p\u0159\u00edjezdu pozn\u00e1v\u00e1me zdej\u0161\u00ed ubytovac\u00ed a stravovac\u00ed z\u00e1zem\u00ed. Po\u010det lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed zde m\u016f\u017eou pozn\u00e1vat kr\u00e1sy tam\u011bj\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edrody je omezen\u00fd na maxim\u00e1ln\u011b 80 osob denn\u011b. Pro vstup a pobyt jsme si je\u0161t\u011b na pevnin\u011b museli tak\u00e9 vy\u0159\u00eddit pot\u0159ebn\u00e1 povolen\u00ed. H\u00e1z\u00edme batohy na pokoje a jdeme se sezn\u00e1mit s\u00a0na\u0161\u00ed sympatickou pr\u016fvodkyn\u00ed Beatrix. Kone\u010dn\u011b vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na pr\u016fzkum ostrova. Gorgonu z\u00a0p\u011btaosmdes\u00e1ti procent pokr\u00fdv\u00e1 hust\u00fd prales. Pod korunami jeho mohutn\u00fdch strom\u016f se skr\u00fdv\u00e1 jedine\u010dn\u00fd ekosyst\u00e9m pln\u00fd vz\u00e1cn\u00fdch druh\u016f. A jeliko\u017e jsou p\u00e1ny ostrova jedovat\u00ed hadi, bez hol\u00ednek se tady nevych\u00e1z\u00ed! T\u00edmto m\u00f3dn\u00edm dopl\u0148kem proto neopovrhujeme ani my. Jedn\u00edm z\u00a0v\u016fbec nejnebezpe\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch had\u016f Kolumbie je k\u0159ovin\u00e1\u0159 aksamitov\u00fd. Netrv\u00e1 snad ani deset minut, co jsme vy\u0161li, a hned vedle vy\u0161lapan\u00e9 stezky pod spadan\u00fdm list\u00edm a v\u011btvemi spat\u0159ujeme schoulen\u00fd bal\u00ed\u010dek. Ano, je to on, k\u0159ovin\u00e1\u0159. Jedov\u00e9 zuby tohoto druhu m\u011b\u0159\u00ed p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 3,5 centimetru a jeho jed zp\u016fsobuje odum\u00edr\u00e1n\u00ed tk\u00e1n\u011b. Pokud je v\u010das pod\u00e1no antis\u00e9rum, \u0161ance na p\u0159e\u017eit\u00ed po u\u0161tknut\u00ed k\u0159ovin\u00e1\u0159em nejsou mal\u00e9, nicm\u00e9n\u011b na rychlou cestu z\u00a0tohoto ostrova m\u016f\u017eeme zapomenout. Statistiky ud\u00e1vaj\u00ed, \u017ee jsou to pr\u00e1v\u011b k\u0159ovin\u00e1\u0159i, kte\u0159\u00ed maj\u00ed v\u00a0cel\u00e9 Kolumbii na sv\u011bdom\u00ed a\u017e 70 % \u00famrt\u00ed po u\u0161tknut\u00ed hadem. Tak snad abychom u\u017e rad\u0161i \u0161li, ne\u017e se hn\u011bd\u00fd chom\u00e1\u010d na\u0161tve a rozvln\u00ed. K\u0159ovin\u00e1\u0159e sice nech\u00e1v\u00e1me daleko za sebou, nicm\u00e9n\u011b se n\u00e1s st\u00e1le zmoc\u0148uje takov\u00fd zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u011b skli\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed pocit. V\u00a0neprostupn\u00e9 d\u017eungli se schov\u00e1vaj\u00ed trosky pralet\u00fdch budov, kter\u00e9 pomalu ale jist\u011b pohlcuj\u00ed tropick\u00e9 d\u0159eviny, li\u00e1ny a ke\u0159e. Jako bychom se najednou ocitli v\u00a0kulis\u00e1ch z n\u011bjak\u00e9ho hororu. Porost je hust\u00fd tak, \u017ee si nem\u016f\u017eete b\u00fdt nikdy jist\u00ed, kdo nebo co n\u00e1s z\u00a0poza n\u011bj pozoruje. Ba co v\u00edc, kdo nebo co se ukr\u00fdv\u00e1 za zdmi za\u0161l\u00fdch budov, ve kter\u00fdch se v\u00a0dob\u00e1ch d\u00e1vno minul\u00fdch na n\u011bjak\u00fd \u010das us\u00eddlilo nejtemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed kolumbijsk\u00e9 zlo. Jeho energie tu minim\u00e1ln\u011b n\u00e1s v\u00a0z\u00e1dech mraz\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b dnes.\u00a0Gorgona le\u017e\u00ed v\u00a0Tich\u00e9m oce\u00e1nu p\u011btat\u0159icet kilometr\u016f od kolumbijsk\u00e9ho pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed. Cesta sem je komplikovan\u00e1 a vy\u017eaduje kombinaci hned n\u011bkolika dopravn\u00edch prost\u0159edk\u016f. \u010c\u00e1st cesty mus\u00edme zdolat ter\u00e9nn\u00edm autem, p\u0159epravu po m\u011bstech zaji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed zde obl\u00edben\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 tuk tuky. Do v\u00fdchoz\u00edho bodu, kter\u00fdm je pob\u0159e\u017en\u00ed m\u011bste\u010dko Guapi, se jinak, ne\u017e letadlem nedostaneme. Je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed nasednut\u00edm do ok\u0159\u00eddlen\u00e9ho stroje jsme na mal\u00e9m leti\u0161ti uprost\u0159ed d\u017eungle intuitivn\u011b vyslali p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed \u0161\u0165astn\u00e9 cesty k\u00a0panence Marii, kter\u00e1 v\u00a0prosklen\u00e9 om\u0161el\u00e9 m\u00edstnosti naz\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed se odletov\u00e1 hala nemohla chyb\u011bt. Uk\u00e1zalo se, \u017ee to nebylo zas a\u017e tak od v\u011bci. I kdy\u017e jsme se na cest\u00e1ch ji\u017e mnohokr\u00e1t p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dili, \u017ee izolepou skute\u010dn\u011b oprav\u00edme v\u0161e, u tam\u011bj\u0161\u00edho letadla jsme si t\u00edm tak \u00fapln\u011b jist\u00ed nebyli. V Guapi p\u0159ist\u00e1v\u00e1me bez komplikac\u00ed. Ufff.\u00a0 Posledn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st cesty zdol\u00e1v\u00e1me lod\u00ed za 2 hodiny.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kolumbijsk\u00fd Alcatraz<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kolumbii od 50. let minul\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed su\u017eovalo nevl\u00eddn\u00e9 politick\u00e9 klima. Vlekl\u00e1 ob\u010dansk\u00e1 v\u00e1lka vyprovokovan\u00e1 odbojov\u00fdmi skupinami pron\u00e1sledovala m\u00edstn\u00ed na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku a vl\u00e1dn\u00edm org\u00e1n\u016fm se situace zcela vymykala z\u00a0rukou. Bojov\u00e1 atmosf\u00e9ra na pevnin\u011b zu\u0159ila dokonce i za zdmi v\u011bznic, kde to vypadalo de facto stejn\u011b jako na svobod\u011b. Guerillov\u00ed radik\u00e1lov\u00e9 i drogov\u00ed mafi\u00e1ni tu d\u00edky korup\u010dn\u00edmu syst\u00e9mu m\u011bli v\u0161e, co pot\u0159ebovali. Zbran\u011b, telefony, drogy\u2026 Jedin\u00e9, na \u010dem se spolu dok\u00e1zali shodnout, bylo to, \u017ee mezi sebou za katrem necht\u011bj\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed specifickou skupinu \u2013 masov\u00e9 vrahy a sexu\u00e1ln\u00ed n\u00e1siln\u00edky. A tak vznikl kolumbijsk\u00fd Alcatraz \u2013 experiment\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u011bznice pro nejhor\u0161\u00ed zlo\u010dince. Kdy\u017e kolumbijsk\u00e1 vl\u00e1da hledala pro v\u011bznici vhodn\u00e9 m\u00edsto, vzpomn\u011bla si na Gorgonu \u2013 9 km dlouh\u00fd a 2,5 km \u0161irok\u00fd ostrov vulkanick\u00e9ho p\u016fvodu le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed ve vln\u00e1ch Pacifiku dostate\u010dn\u011b stranou od pevniny.\u00a0Prvn\u00ed krimin\u00e1ln\u00edci na Gorgonu p\u0159ipluli 8. \u0159\u00edjna roku 1960. V\u011bznice m\u011bla ofici\u00e1ln\u011b kapacitu 1050 osob, um\u00edst\u011bno jich tu ale bylo a\u017e dva a p\u016fl tis\u00edce. V\u00a0n\u00edzk\u00fdch ubikac\u00edch v\u011bzni spali na d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdch pry\u010dn\u00e1ch bez matrac\u00ed. Soci\u00e1ln\u00ed za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed nem\u011bla st\u011bny, aby dozorci m\u011bli p\u0159ehled nad ka\u017ed\u00fdm a nad v\u0161\u00edm. Kolumbijci p\u0159i v\u00fdstavb\u011b t\u00e9to v\u011bznice a ur\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed jej\u00edch princip\u016f na\u0161li inspiraci v\u00a0nacistick\u00fdch koncentra\u010dn\u00edch t\u00e1borech. A po rozhl\u00e9dnut\u00ed se kolem o tom nen\u00ed pochyb. Jednou z\u00a0budov, ze kter\u00e9 jsou dnes u\u017e jenom trosky, byla i v\u011bze\u0148sk\u00e1 nemocnice. Vedl ji v\u011bhlasn\u00fd doktor Bernardo, zn\u00e1m\u00fd hlavn\u011b proto, \u017ee v\u011bzn\u011b operoval, jak m\u00edstn\u00ed \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed, unik\u00e1tn\u00ed metodou. Specializoval se p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm na operace hlavy a amputace, ke kter\u00fdm pou\u017e\u00edval pouze dva n\u00e1stroje – n\u016f\u017e a pilku. I tento fakt vypov\u00edd\u00e1 o krutosti cel\u00e9ho za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed. Drsn\u00e9 podm\u00ednky, okoln\u00ed nepropustn\u00e1 d\u017eungle, jedovat\u00ed hadi a mo\u0159e pln\u00e9 \u017eralok\u016f byly hlavn\u00ed d\u016fvody, pro\u010d \u0159ada internovan\u00fdch u\u017e Gorgonu nikdy neopustila. Ti, co p\u0159e\u017eili, nadobro odpluli 25. \u010dervna 1984.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dnes Gorgona pat\u0159\u00ed sama sob\u011b. V\u011bznice se stala d\u00e1vnou minulost\u00ed a p\u0159\u00edroda si bere zp\u011bt to, co j\u00ed kdysi n\u00e1le\u017eelo. Ostrov a okoln\u00ed mo\u0159e jsou nyn\u00ed sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku. Z ubytoven pro dozorce se stalo z\u00e1zem\u00ed pro spr\u00e1vce parku a n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky. Pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1l v obch\u016fzce ostrova. Nad na\u0161imi hlavami se proh\u00e1n\u011bj\u00ed malpy a chv\u00edli n\u00e1s doprov\u00e1zej\u00ed. Tyto chytr\u00e9 opi\u010dky, si dok\u00e1\u017eou sami vyrobit t\u0159eba repelent proti kom\u00e1r\u016fm. Z\u00edsk\u00e1vaj\u00ed ho odchytem speci\u00e1ln\u00edho druhu housenek, kter\u00e9 v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b stresu \u010di podr\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed produkuj\u00ed speci\u00e1ln\u00ed tekutinu odpuzuj\u00edc\u00ed dot\u011brn\u00fd hmyz. A abychom n\u00e1hodou nem\u011bli m\u00e1lo had\u016f, v b\u00fdval\u00e9 v\u011bze\u0148sk\u00e9 kuchyni se setk\u00e1v\u00e1me s hrozn\u00fd\u0161em kr\u00e1lovsk\u00fdm. Hadi jsou evolu\u010dn\u011b nejmlad\u0161\u00edmi plazi a hrozn\u00fd\u0161ovit\u00ed maj\u00ed zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 evolu\u010dn\u00ed poz\u016fstatky zadn\u00edch kon\u010detin, konkr\u00e9tn\u011b p\u00e1nevn\u00ed kosti a kousku kosti stehenn\u00ed. V\u00fdstra\u017en\u00e9 sy\u010den\u00ed hrozn\u00fd\u0161\u016f je sly\u0161et na vzd\u00e1lenost a\u017e 30 metr\u016f.  Jsou tak nejen v\u00fdkonn\u00ed sy\u010d\u00e1ci, ale tak\u00e9 p\u011bkn\u00ed \u017eravci. Malpa by pro na\u0161eho nov\u00e9ho k\u00e1mo\u0161e byla ur\u010dit\u011b l\u00e1kav\u00fdm soustem. Sv\u011bdky lovu, ale na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed dnes nejsme. Ostrov obr\u016fst\u00e1 nejenom 620 km2<\/sup> pralesa, ale tak\u00e9 jej obklopuje mo\u0159e pln\u00e9 p\u0159ekr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho \u017eivota. Ve zdej\u0161\u00edch vod\u00e1ch se proh\u00e1n\u011bj\u00ed mo\u0159sk\u00e9 \u017eelvy, nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed druhy \u017eralok\u016f v\u010detn\u011b kladivoun\u016f, v obdob\u00ed od \u010dervna do z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed do m\u00edstn\u00edch z\u00e1to\u010din p\u0159iplouvaj\u00ed dokonce i keporkaci.  Posledn\u00ed ve\u010der na ostrov\u011b si rekapitulujeme z\u00e1\u017eitky p\u0159edchoz\u00edch t\u0159ech dn\u016f. Shodujeme se, \u017ee ostrov i jeho okol\u00ed n\u00e1s nadchl p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm mno\u017estv\u00edm pocit\u016f, kter\u00e9 jsme tu za\u017eili. A\u0165 u\u017e to byla euforie po p\u0159ekon\u00e1n\u00ed zdlouhav\u00e9 cesty, \u00fadiv nad fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed s\u00edlou p\u0159\u00edrody, dojet\u00ed z p\u0159en\u00e1dhern\u00e9ho \u017eivota v\u0161ude kolem, nap\u011bt\u00ed z mno\u017estv\u00ed had\u016f nebo pocity zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00edho strachu v kulis\u00e1ch p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed krutou minulost tohoto m\u00edsta. Pozn\u00e1n\u00ed Gorgony rozhodn\u011b st\u00e1lo a stoj\u00ed za to!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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