{"id":7137,"date":"2013-06-01T10:20:28","date_gmt":"2013-06-01T08:20:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/?p=7137"},"modified":"2020-12-04T10:07:42","modified_gmt":"2020-12-04T09:07:42","slug":"pribeh-tajemne-famadihany","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/2013\/06\/01\/pribeh-tajemne-famadihany\/","title":{"rendered":"P\u0158\u00cdB\u011aH TAJEMN\u00c9 FAMADIHANY"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Publikov\u00e1no v magaz\u00ednu Koktejl \u010d\u00edslo 06, rok 2013<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Magick\u00e9 a tajemn\u00e9 tradice jsou ned\u00edlnou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed \u017eivota obyvatel neoby\u010dejn\u00e9ho ostrova jm\u00e9nem Madagaskar. Tam\u011bj\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9 bezmezn\u011b v\u011b\u0159\u00ed v s\u00edlu mocn\u00fdch duch\u016f a d\u00e9mon\u016f, kter\u00fdm p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161ej\u00ed ob\u011btiny a k jejich\u017e uct\u011bn\u00ed vykon\u00e1vaj\u00ed pestr\u00e9 ritu\u00e1ly. Ve velk\u00e9 \u00fact\u011b Malga\u0161i chovaj\u00ed tak\u00e9 sv\u00e9 mrtv\u00e9 p\u0159edky. V\u011b\u0159\u00ed, \u017ee smrt\u00ed nic nekon\u010d\u00ed. Naopak. Se smrt\u00ed p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed zm\u011bna a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 n\u011bco nov\u00e9ho. Pro Malga\u0161e je dokonce velkou ct\u00ed st\u00e1t se v\u00e1\u017een\u00fdm p\u0159edkem, a z\u00edskat tak titul razana. Znamen\u00e1 to v\u0161ak nejen m\u00edt b\u011bhem \u017eivota dobr\u00e9 postaven\u00ed ve vesnici, vlastnit po\u010detn\u00e9 st\u00e1do zebu, ale i proj\u00edt celou \u0159adou ritu\u00e1l\u016f a ceremoni\u00ed. D\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 tak\u00e9 je b\u00fdt \u0159\u00e1dn\u011b poh\u0159ben. Ob\u0159adem, po kter\u00e9m se mrtv\u00fd p\u0159edek stane v\u0161emi v\u00e1\u017een\u00fdm razana, je poh\u0159ebn\u00ed ritu\u00e1l, b\u011bhem n\u011bho\u017e doch\u00e1z\u00ed k exhumaci jeho ostatk\u016f. Fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed ceremonie s mystick\u00fdm n\u00e1zvem famadihana je jednou z neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fdch tradic na\u0161\u00ed planety Zem\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Setkat se s famadihanou nen\u00ed nic lehk\u00e9ho. K ob\u0159adu doch\u00e1z\u00ed rok a\u017e sedm let po \u00famrt\u00ed \u010dlov\u011bka. Madagaskarsk\u00e9 z\u00e1kony jasn\u011b stanovuj\u00ed, \u017ee se sm\u00ed vykon\u00e1vat pouze v nejteplej\u0161\u00edch m\u011bs\u00edc\u00edch v roce, tedy od \u010dervna do z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed. Pro Malga\u0161e je famadihana velmi obl\u00edbenou ceremoni\u00ed. P\u0159edstavuje pro n\u011b v\u0161ak i velmi intimn\u00ed sou\u010d\u00e1st jejich \u017eivot\u016f. \u00da\u010dast cizinc\u016f je proto bez souhlasu rodiny po\u0159\u00e1daj\u00edc\u00ed ob\u0159ad zapov\u011bzena. Rodina, \u010das i m\u00edsto, kde by se v t\u011bchto dnech mohla famadihana konat je pro n\u00e1s jedna velk\u00e1 nezn\u00e1m\u00e1. Nem\u00e1m sebemen\u0161\u00ed p\u0159edstavu o tom, jak tohoto setk\u00e1n\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jsme si p\u0159ed odjezdem na Madagaskar stanovili za hlavn\u00ed pil\u00ed\u0159 na\u0161\u00ed cesty, dos\u00e1hneme. V tuto chv\u00edli m\u011b a m\u00fdm spolucestovatel\u016fm Adamovi a Mirkovi nezb\u00fdv\u00e1 nic jin\u00e9ho ne\u017e usilovn\u011b hledat, pt\u00e1t se, v\u011b\u0159it a p\u0159\u00e1t si. Tajemn\u00e9 madagaskarsk\u00e9 s\u00edly n\u00e1s t\u0159eba vysly\u0161\u00ed a pomohou n\u00e1m naplnit c\u00edl na\u0161\u00ed v po\u0159ad\u00ed ji\u017e druh\u00e9 expedice na Madagaskar. Dne\u0161n\u00ed madagaskarsk\u00e9 r\u00e1no je stejn\u011b slune\u010dn\u00e9 a tepl\u00e9 jako v\u0161echna p\u0159ede\u0161l\u00e1. Proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme centr\u00e1ln\u00ed vyso\u010dinou. Ub\u00edhaj\u00edc\u00ed vyprahlou a rudou krajinu pozoruji z ok\u00fdnka na\u0161eho pronajat\u00e9ho automobilu. M\u00edj\u00edme \u010detn\u00e9 erozivn\u00ed r\u00fdhy, chud\u00e1 malga\u0161sk\u00e1 staven\u00ed, st\u00e1da zebu a mnoh\u00e9 skupinky chodc\u016f. Sem tam ze such\u00e9 tr\u00e1vy vy\u010dn\u00edvaj\u00ed i tradi\u010dn\u00ed pest\u0159e zdoben\u00e9 hrobky. Sm\u011b\u0159ujeme k jednomu z mnoha n\u00e1mi vybran\u00fdch m\u00edst na t\u00e9to cest\u011b. Plna dojm\u016f ze v\u0161ech ub\u011bhl\u00fdch dn\u00ed str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v t\u00e9to neoby\u010dejn\u00e9 zemi a p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm z p\u0159edchoz\u00edho vesel\u00e9ho setk\u00e1n\u00ed s lemury kata p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm, co n\u00e1m asi p\u0159inese dal\u0161\u00ed proslun\u011bn\u00e9 r\u00e1no na na\u0161\u00ed dvoum\u011bs\u00ed\u010dn\u00ed expedici. Ani na chv\u00edli by m\u011b nenapadlo, \u017ee se na\u0161e dne\u0161n\u00ed pl\u00e1ny neo\u010dek\u00e1van\u011b zm\u011bn\u00ed. Zm\u011bn\u00ed tak, \u017ee do n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku Ankarafantsika dnes nedojedeme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jak jsem se za necel\u00fdch osm t\u00fddn\u016f tady p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dila, \u010das i \u017eivot na Madagaskaru plyne p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b klidn\u00fdm, pomal\u00fdm a p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fdm tempem. Podivuji se proto skupin\u011b n\u011bkolika des\u00edtek lid\u00ed, kter\u00e1 se znen\u00e1hla objevila v d\u00e1li na horizontu dlouh\u00e9 rovinky. Pulzuj\u00edc\u00ed dav poskakuj\u00edc\u00edch lid\u00ed se s \u017eivelnou silou malga\u0161sk\u00fdch rytm\u016f p\u0159ibli\u017euje sm\u011brem k n\u00e1m. Zastavujeme, proto\u017ee ani na\u0161e velk\u00e1 \u010dty\u0159kolka nen\u00ed dostate\u010dn\u011b siln\u00fdm d\u016fvodem k tomu, aby rozv\u00e1\u0161n\u011bn\u00fd dav uvolnil cestu. Ve vzduchu c\u00edt\u00edm tajemn\u00e9 nap\u011bt\u00ed. Najednou jako by spolu se v\u0161emi t\u011bmi rozdivo\u010del\u00fdmi Malga\u0161i, kte\u0159\u00ed ji\u017e v tuto chv\u00edli energicky prob\u00edhaj\u00ed kolem na\u0161eho auta, \u010das ub\u00edhal nep\u0159edstavitelnou rychlost\u00ed. V\u0161e se b\u011bhem okam\u017eiku odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 v tempu pro zdej\u0161\u00ed \u017eivot nev\u00eddan\u00e9m. \u201cCo se to tu d\u011bje?\u201d pt\u00e1m se s nev\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00edm v\u00fdrazem nejen sama sebe, ale i Adama a Mirka. \u017diveln\u00fd tanec, tradi\u010dn\u00ed hudba, malga\u0161sk\u00e9 rytmy, vesel\u00fd a hlasit\u00fd zp\u011bv strh\u00e1v\u00e1 Malga\u0161e do transu. V \u010dele elektrizuj\u00edc\u00edho davu se do rytmu pohupuje usm\u011bvav\u00e1 mlad\u00e1 d\u00edvka m\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed nad veselou skupinou madagaskarskou vlaje\u010dkou. Lid\u00e9 za n\u00ed vesele poskakuj\u00ed s rukama nad hlavami. Tleskaj\u00ed, krout\u00ed boky do rytmu hudby a absolutn\u011b nevn\u00edmaj\u00ed sv\u011bt kolem sebe. V tuto chv\u00edli si v\u0161ichni t\u0159i v\u0161\u00edm\u00e1me i cel\u00e9ho st\u0159edobodu z\u00e1jmu rozveselen\u00fdch lid\u00ed. Je j\u00edm d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fd box pota\u017een\u00fd tradi\u010dn\u00edm lamba. Pest\u0159e zdoben\u00e1 l\u00e1tka, kterou tu \u017eeny nos\u00ed jako sukni a mu\u017ei si ji omot\u00e1vaj\u00ed kolem ramen pro zah\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed, m\u016f\u017ee m\u00edt na Madagaskaru opravdu v\u0161estrann\u00e9 vyu\u017eit\u00ed. Dne\u0161n\u00edho dne slou\u017e\u00ed jako zdobn\u00fd p\u0159ebal rakve.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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S\u00edla a energie lid\u00ed ve mn\u011b vyvol\u00e1v\u00e1 st\u00e1le siln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed nap\u011bt\u00ed, vzru\u0161en\u00ed, zv\u011bdavost. My, vaza, jak n\u00e1m Malga\u0161i \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed, jsme z\u010dista jasna sv\u011bdky n\u011b\u010deho neoby\u010dejn\u00e9ho. Ned\u00e1 mi to. Vystupuji z auta. V\u0161e nasv\u011bd\u010duje tomu, \u017ee to, co se tu na jedn\u00e9 oby\u010dejn\u00e9 silnici odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 je famdihana. Francouzky ani malga\u0161sky neum\u00edm. V\u00fdjma \u201coui\u201d, \u201cbonjour\u201d, \u201cmerci\u201d a p\u00e1r konverza\u010dn\u00edch fr\u00e1z\u00ed jsou m\u00e9 komunika\u010dn\u00ed mo\u017enosti dosti omezen\u00e9. I p\u0159esto pokl\u00e1d\u00e1m upocen\u00e9 malga\u0161sk\u00e9 \u017een\u011b, kter\u00e1 vedle m\u011b vesele k\u0159ep\u010d\u00ed, velmi jednoduchou a pro n\u00e1s dost z\u00e1sadn\u00ed ot\u00e1zku \u201cFamadihana?\u201d Rozveselen\u00e1 \u017eena, sympatick\u00fd mlad\u00edk, ud\u00fdchan\u00fd sta\u0159ec i usm\u011bvav\u00e9 d\u011bti m\u00e9 ot\u00e1zce z\u0159ejm\u011b, jak se zd\u00e1, rozum\u00ed, le\u010d po jej\u00edm vy\u0159\u010den\u00ed p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed nam\u00edsto jasn\u00e9, stru\u010dn\u00e9 a o\u010dek\u00e1van\u00e9 odpov\u011bdi v\u017edy stejn\u00fd stydliv\u00fd v\u00fdraz. V\u0161echny ty odvr\u00e1cen\u00e9 pohledy, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1sleduj\u00ed, mi ned\u00e1vaj\u00ed ani n\u00e1znak toho, zda jsou m\u00e9 p\u0159edpoklady spr\u00e1vn\u00e9 \u010di nikoliv. \u201cSlovo famadihana je v pr\u016fb\u011bhu ob\u0159adu fady, tedy tabu, nesm\u00ed se vyslovit.\u201d Vysv\u011btluje mi narychlo Adam. Zak\u00e1zan\u00fdch slov a \u010dinnost\u00ed, tzv. fady, je na Madagaskaru skute\u010dn\u011b cel\u00e1 \u0159ada. Koho by napadlo, \u017ee se to bude t\u00fdkat i tohoto pro n\u00e1s tak d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9ho slova. V tu chv\u00edli m\u011b kdosi tah\u00e1 za ruk\u00e1v. Jasn\u00fdm pohledem, srozumiteln\u00fdm k\u00fdvnut\u00edm hlavy mi nakonec famadihanu potvrzuje postar\u0161\u00ed velmi mil\u00e1 d\u00e1ma. Madagaskar a s\u00e1m \u017eivot je prost\u011b neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fd! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Na v\u0161ech cest\u00e1ch v\u017edy ct\u00edme ve\u0161ker\u00e9 tradice, z\u00e1konitosti a etiketu m\u00edstn\u00edch obyvatel. Ani dne\u0161ek proto nen\u00ed v\u00fdjimkou. Za zept\u00e1n\u00ed ale \u010dlov\u011bk nikdy nic ned\u00e1. Rukama nohama, bohu\u017eel jinak to nejde, se s p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fdmi \u010dleny rodiny Beandapov\u00fdch domlouv\u00e1me, zda by na\u0161e p\u0159\u00edtomnost byla mo\u017en\u00e1. K t\u00e9to fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed oslav\u011b jsme po chv\u00edli velmi v\u0159ele p\u0159izv\u00e1ni. S radost\u00ed, vd\u011b\u010dnost\u00ed a \u00factou rodinu obdarov\u00e1v\u00e1me lahv\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00edho v\u00fdborn\u00e9ho rumu. Spokojenost je tak na obou stran\u00e1ch. Famadihana za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 snem. Snem, ve kter\u00e9m nebo\u017et\u00edk nav\u0161t\u00edv\u00ed n\u011bkter\u00e9ho z \u010dlen\u016f sv\u00e9 rodiny a vyslov\u00ed p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed, \u017ee je ten prav\u00fd \u010das vykonat s jeho ostatky tento d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd ritu\u00e1l. Luc\u016fv p\u0159ed rokem zesnul\u00fd d\u011bde\u010dek si pro famadihanu vybral pr\u00e1v\u011b dne\u0161n\u00ed den. \u010casn\u011b z r\u00e1na proto rodina vykopala jeho ostatky z rodinn\u00e9 hrobky. Hlavn\u00edm a nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00edm ritu\u00e1lem v pr\u016fb\u011bhu cel\u00e9 famadihany je o\u010dista ostatk\u016f zem\u0159el\u00e9ho p\u0159edka a jeho p\u0159evle\u010den\u00ed do nov\u00e9ho roucha. S\u00e1m n\u00e1zev t\u00e9to ceremonie v p\u0159ekladu znamen\u00e1 \u201cot\u00e1\u010den\u00ed kost\u00ed\u201d. Kvalitu nov\u00e9ho roucha ud\u00e1v\u00e1 majetek, kter\u00fd nebo\u017et\u00edk za \u017eivota vlastnil, a spole\u010densk\u00e9 postaven\u00ed, kter\u00e9 m\u011bl ve vesnici. V n\u011bkter\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1stech ostrova se pro tento \u00fa\u010del pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 pouze speci\u00e1ln\u00ed b\u00edl\u00e9 l\u00e1tky utkan\u00e9 z pevn\u00fdch vl\u00e1ken pavouk\u016f Nephilla madagascariensis. Pe\u010dliv\u00e1 a kvalitn\u00ed p\u00e9\u010de o zem\u0159el\u00e9 je velmi d\u016fle\u017eitou \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed \u017eivota Malga\u0161\u016f. Jejich rodinn\u00e1 pouta jsou velmi siln\u00e1 a v\u0161ichni bezmezn\u011b v\u011b\u0159\u00ed, \u017ee jejich p\u0159edci jsou s nimi i po smrti. Neope\u010dov\u00e1van\u00fd nebo\u017et\u00edk je pro rodinu hrozbou. \u010casto rodinu stra\u0161\u00ed nebo dokonce na p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00e9 ses\u00edl\u00e1 ne\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed a r\u016fzn\u00e9 nemoci. Chud\u00e9 malga\u0161sk\u00e9 rodiny proto rad\u011bji investuj\u00ed nejen do famadihany nemal\u00e9 obnosy, \u010dasto i n\u011bkolik des\u00edtek tis\u00edc korun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mrtv\u00fd d\u011bde\u010dek si v tento slavnostn\u00ed den p\u0159\u00e1l nejen nov\u00e9 roucho, d\u016fle\u017eitou \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed famadihany je tak\u00e9 znovu setk\u00e1n\u00ed s rodinou a p\u0159\u00e1teli. Nebo\u017et\u00edka na jeho dne\u0161n\u00ed cest\u011b sv\u011btem doprov\u00e1z\u00ed energick\u00fd zp\u011bv ritu\u00e1ln\u00edch p\u00edsn\u00ed a bujar\u00e9 vesel\u00ed. Spole\u010dn\u011b s po\u010detnou skupinou domorodc\u016f proch\u00e1z\u00edme celou vesnic\u00ed. D\u011bde\u010dek se mus\u00ed pod\u00edvat, co se tu za dobu jeho nep\u0159\u00edtomnosti ud\u00e1lo nov\u00e9ho, zjistit v\u0161echny novinky, i m\u00edstn\u00ed klepy, poveselit se se star\u00fdmi zn\u00e1m\u00fdmi a p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm si u\u017e\u00edt setk\u00e1n\u00ed s rodinou. Po n\u011bkolika hodin\u00e1ch obch\u00e1zen\u00ed vesnice a v\u0161ech p\u0159\u00e1tel se s rodinou i nebo\u017et\u00edkem p\u0159esouv\u00e1me k mal\u00e9mu domku u silnice. Na jeho dvorku propukaj\u00ed bujar\u00e9 oslavy k uct\u011bn\u00ed p\u0159edka. Vesel\u00ed podpo\u0159en\u00e9 pivem a ko\u0159alkou je v tuto chv\u00edli opojn\u00e9, teplo v prav\u00e9 poledne v\u0161ak nesnesiteln\u00e9. Malga\u0161i a zcela jist\u011b i ti d\u00e1vno zem\u0159el\u00ed miluj\u00ed sm\u00edch, z\u00e1bavu a tanec. Na dvorku Lucova domu n\u00e1m to dokazuj\u00ed se v\u0161\u00ed par\u00e1dou. Zp\u011bvy st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 pro m\u00e9 u\u0161i a\u017e nesnesiteln\u011b hlasit\u00e1 vesel\u00e1 reprodukovan\u00e1 hudba. Elektrick\u00fd proud p\u0159iv\u00e1d\u00ed do star\u00e9 stereo soupravy zap\u016fj\u010den\u00fd gener\u00e1tor, kter\u00fd sv\u00fdm charakteristick\u00fdm vr\u010den\u00edm p\u0159isp\u00edv\u00e1 k cel\u00e9 bl\u00e1zniv\u00e9 atmosf\u00e9\u0159e. Nesta\u010d\u00edm se divit, co se p\u0159ed m\u00fdma o\u010dima odehr\u00e1v\u00e1. V\u0161ichni v\u010detn\u011b nebo\u017et\u00edka tan\u010d\u00ed. Rakev se na vln\u00e1ch ze vzty\u010den\u00fdch lidsk\u00fdch rukou pohupuje nad hlavami p\u0159\u00edtomn\u00fdch. P\u0159izn\u00e1m se, \u017ee v tuto chv\u00edli jsem z pohledu St\u0159edoevropanky lehce v \u0161oku. Tane\u010dn\u00edci bez jak\u00e9hokoliv studu a z\u00e1bran s rakv\u00ed divoce pohazuj\u00ed a do rytmu hudby na ni poklep\u00e1vaj\u00ed. V\u0161ichni mrtv\u00e9mu d\u011bde\u010dkovi dop\u0159\u00e1vaj\u00ed zaslou\u017een\u00e9ho rozveselen\u00ed. Od bos\u00fdch nohou se pr\u00e1\u0161\u00ed rud\u00e1 p\u016fda, kter\u00e1 \u017eivo\u010di\u0161n\u011b tancuj\u00edc\u00ed skupinu hal\u00ed do rud\u00e9ho oblaku. P\u0159\u00edtomn\u00ed se sm\u011bj\u00ed a neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u011b smysln\u011b raduj\u00ed. Zji\u0161\u0165uji, \u017ee i na m\u00e9 tv\u00e1\u0159i se r\u00fdsuje \u00fasm\u011bv od ucha k uchu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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V\u00e1\u017een\u00fd razana se mus\u00ed v pr\u016fb\u011bhu famadihany sej\u00edt se v\u0161emi p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00fdmi. V\u00fdjimkou proto nejsou ani ti, kte\u0159\u00ed se na ceremonii z n\u011bjak\u00e9ho d\u016fvodu dostavit nemohou. Famadihana prost\u011b a jednodu\u0161e p\u0159ijede k nim. A to doslova. Rodina si objedn\u00e1 dod\u00e1vku zaji\u0161\u0165uj\u00edc\u00ed p\u0159epravu mezi vesnicemi, tzv. taxi brouser. Sveze se samoz\u0159ejm\u011b i nebo\u017et\u00edk. Jeho m\u00edsto je vedle zavazedel na st\u0159e\u0161e vozu. N\u00e1klad je kompletn\u00ed a\u017e ve chv\u00edli, kdy je k rakvi p\u0159ipevn\u011bna madagaskarsk\u00e1 vlaje\u010dka. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed movit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed Malga\u0161i sv\u00e9 mrtv\u00e9 p\u0159edky v minulosti p\u0159epravovali i m\u00edstn\u00ed leteckou dopravou. Na mnoha leti\u0161t\u00edch tak jsou pr\u00fd dodnes k vid\u011bn\u00ed cedule, kter\u00e9 upozor\u0148uj\u00ed na z\u00e1kaz cestov\u00e1n\u00ed s mrtvolami. Jeliko\u017e po Madagaskaru cestujeme autem, \u017e\u00e1dnou takovou cedulku jsem tu nevid\u011bla. Mus\u00edm v\u0161ak dodat, \u017ee po pozn\u00e1n\u00ed Madagaskaru o jejich existenci nem\u00e1m sebemen\u0161\u00ed pochyb. Famadihana je obl\u00edben\u00e1 nejen z \u00facty k tradici, ale tak\u00e9 proto, \u017ee se b\u011bhem oslav pod\u00e1v\u00e1 spousty j\u00eddla a pit\u00ed. Na dvorku za Lucov\u00fdm domem se nad rozd\u011blan\u00fdm ohn\u011bm va\u0159\u00ed jak jinak ne\u017e hov\u011bz\u00ed. Zasytit \u017ealudky v\u00edce ne\u017e sto pades\u00e1ti lid\u00ed nen\u00ed v\u016fbec nic snadn\u00e9ho. Zapot\u0159eb\u00ed je tedy po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e1 kuchyn\u011b. Mal\u00e9 hrnce tak p\u0159i t\u00e9to ud\u00e1losti spolehliv\u011b zastoup\u00ed t\u0159eba dv\u011b st\u011b litrov\u00fd plechov\u00fd barel, p\u0159esn\u011b takov\u00fd, do kter\u00e9ho se u n\u00e1s d\u00e1v\u00e1 motorov\u00fd olej. K masu se tradi\u010dn\u011b pod\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u0161emi obl\u00edben\u00e1 malga\u0161sk\u00e1 r\u00fd\u017ee. Hudba utich\u00e1. St\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 ji cinkav\u00fd zvuk l\u017eic a smaltovan\u00fdch misek. Dle m\u00edstn\u00edch zvyklost\u00ed nejprve jed\u00ed mu\u017ei, po nich \u017eeny a nakonec d\u011bti. Z \u00facty a vd\u011b\u010dnosti k rodin\u011b p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1me misku i my. Rad\u0161i ani nep\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm nad t\u00edm, co v\u0161e v onom barelu kdy bylo nebo snad dokonce jak\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem jej m\u00edstn\u00ed p\u0159ed va\u0159en\u00edm o\u010distili. Nutno dodat, \u017ee hov\u011bz\u00ed chutn\u00e1 docela dob\u0159e. S ve\u010de\u0159\u00ed rodina samoz\u0159ejm\u011b nezapomn\u011bla ani na v\u00e1\u017een\u00e9ho d\u011bde\u010dka.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Kraj od kraje se jednotliv\u00e9 zvyky v r\u00e1mci famadihany odli\u0161uj\u00ed. Z\u00e1klad ritu\u00e1lu je ale po cel\u00e9m ostrov\u011b ve sv\u00e9 podstat\u011b stejn\u00fd. S koncem dne\u0161n\u00edho divok\u00e9ho dne nast\u00e1v\u00e1 \u010das odn\u00e9st ostatky zp\u011bt do rodinn\u00e9 hrobky. Proch\u00e1z\u00edme vyprahlou madagaskarskou savanou.  Krajinou se ji\u017e op\u011bt line energick\u00fd zp\u011bv ritu\u00e1ln\u00edch p\u00edsn\u00ed. Slunce pomalu zapad\u00e1 a jeho st\u00e1le je\u0161t\u011b z\u00e1\u0159iv\u00e9 paprsky hal\u00ed okoln\u00ed krajinu do zlatav\u00e9ho pl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b. Rodina Beandapov\u00fdch, jejich zn\u00e1m\u00ed a soused\u00e9 sm\u011b\u0159uj\u00ed k jedin\u00e9mu c\u00edli – hrobce p\u0159edk\u016f. Na t\u00e9to posledn\u00ed cest\u011b doprov\u00e1z\u00edme v\u00e1\u017een\u00e9ho nebo\u017et\u00edka i my t\u0159i. Jeden z mnoha p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh\u016f planety Zem\u011b – poh\u0159ebn\u00ed ritu\u00e1l famadihana, se bl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed ke sv\u00e9mu vyvrcholen\u00ed. Zb\u00fdv\u00e1 u\u017e jen posledn\u00ed, ulo\u017eit mrtv\u00e9ho p\u0159edka zp\u011bt k odpo\u010dinku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Famadihana skon\u010dila. Jej\u00ed energie ve mn\u011b ale z\u016fstane je\u0161t\u011b hodn\u011b dlouho. Cestou zp\u011bt k autu mi hlavou prob\u00edh\u00e1 tis\u00edce my\u0161lenek. Jak odli\u0161n\u00fd m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt pohled na smrt a mrtv\u00e9. Jak hezk\u00e9 vztahy pln\u00e9 l\u00e1sky, p\u00e9\u010de, radosti a \u00facty maj\u00ed lid\u00e9 na chud\u00e9m Madagaskaru. Vzpom\u00edn\u00e1m tak\u00e9 na m\u00e9 obavy, zda famadihanu v\u016fbec spat\u0159\u00edme a d\u011bkuji v\u0161em Malga\u0161\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1m umo\u017enili b\u00fdt sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed tohoto fascinuj\u00edc\u00edho ob\u0159adu. Jsem \u0161\u0165astn\u00e1. \u0160\u0165astn\u00e1, \u017ee se na\u0161e velk\u00e9 p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed naplnilo. Kdy\u017e si toti\u017e \u010dlov\u011bk n\u011bco opravdov\u011b p\u0159eje, spln\u00ed se mu to. Nejen na Madagaskaru.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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