{"id":6704,"date":"2020-08-29T13:36:33","date_gmt":"2020-08-29T11:36:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/?post_type=portfolios&p=6704"},"modified":"2020-12-15T21:34:42","modified_gmt":"2020-12-15T20:34:42","slug":"myanmar-pavouci-zeny","status":"publish","type":"portfolios","link":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/portfolios\/myanmar-pavouci-zeny\/","title":{"rendered":"Myanmar – Pavou\u010d\u00ed \u017eeny"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Myanmar – Pavou\u010d\u00ed \u017eeny<\/h2>\n
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\u201eHornat\u00e1 oblast \u010cjinsk\u00fd st\u00e1t se rozprost\u00edr\u00e1 na z\u00e1pad\u011b Myanmaru, u hranic Indie a Banglad\u00e9\u0161e. Zdej\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9 hovo\u0159\u00ed vlastn\u00edm jazykem, kter\u00fd se li\u0161\u00ed a\u017e ve \u010dty\u0159iceti dialektech.\u201c<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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\u010cjinsk\u00fd st\u00e1t je nejchud\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed Myanmaru, kde nad hranic\u00ed tis\u00edc metr\u016f nad mo\u0159em \u017eije p\u016fl milionu obyvatel. Zdej\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9 hovo\u0159\u00ed vlastn\u00edm jazykem, kter\u00fd se li\u0161\u00ed a\u017e ve \u010dty\u0159iceti dialektech. Jazykov\u00e1 rozmanitost zdej\u0161\u00edho \u00fazem\u00ed je natolik velk\u00e1, \u017ee dialektem, kter\u00fdm se mluv\u00ed v jednom \u00fadol\u00ed, se lid\u00e9 v \u00fadol\u00ed sousedn\u00edm u\u017e nedorozum\u011bj\u00ed. \u010cjinov\u00e9 p\u0159i\u0161li na zdej\u0161\u00ed \u00fazem\u00ed 1000 let p\u0159. n. l. z Tibetu a tvo\u0159\u00ed velk\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed r\u016fznorod\u00fdch kmen\u016f a etnick\u00fdch skupin. Kulturou a tradicemi jsou si bli\u017e\u0161\u00ed sp\u00ed\u0161e s kmeny okoln\u00edch st\u00e1t\u016f ne\u017e se zbytkem n\u00e1rod\u016f Myanmaru. Nejroz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u011bj\u0161\u00edm n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00edm je zde k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se siln\u011b prol\u00edn\u00e1 s tradi\u010dn\u00edm animismem. Opakovan\u00e9 snahy barmsk\u00e9 vl\u00e1dy zav\u00e9st do oblasti buddhismus nem\u011bly valn\u00fd \u00fasp\u011bch. Zomi, Asho, K’cho, Kuki a dal\u0161\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed etnika, ti v\u0161ichni br\u00e1n\u00ed d\u00e1vn\u00e9 tradice sv\u00fdch kultur. Ve vesnic\u00edch proto m\u016f\u017eeme vid\u011bt ch\u00fd\u0161e zdoben\u00e9 k\u0159\u00ed\u017ei i lebkami buvol\u016f nebo d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 olt\u00e1\u0159e pro lesn\u00ed duchy (naty). Ned\u00edlnou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed domorod\u00e9ho \u017eivota je samoz\u0159ejm\u011b i magick\u00e9 nadp\u0159irozeno.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Nejv\u00edce jsou \u010cjinov\u00e9 proslaveni kr\u00e1sou sv\u00fdch \u017een. Vypr\u00e1v\u00ed se, \u017ee barm\u0161t\u00ed kr\u00e1lov\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed \u017eeny a d\u00edvky un\u00e1\u0161eli. Ty si proto za\u010daly tetovat obli\u010deje, co\u017e m\u011blo mu\u017ee odradit. Cel\u00e1 procedura musela b\u00fdt nesm\u00edrn\u011b bolestiv\u00e1. D\u00edvky ji podstupovaly mezi 11. a\u017e 15. rokem. Z\u00fa\u010dastn\u011bn\u00ed je museli n\u00e1sil\u00edm dr\u017eet, aby n\u011bkolikahodinov\u00e9 utrpen\u00ed v\u016fbec vydr\u017eely. Tetovac\u00ed l\u00e1tkou byl inkoust ze sm\u011bsi p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edch barviv
\na n\u00e1strojem pali\u010dka s jehlicemi. Nen\u00ed divu, \u017ee obli\u010dej d\u00edvk\u00e1m \u010dasto otekl na n\u011bkolik dn\u016f. Tetov\u00e1n\u00ed se mezi jednotliv\u00fdmi kmeny li\u0161\u00ed vzory, od mal\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1rek a te\u010dek a\u017e po obrazce pokr\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed cel\u00fd obli\u010dej. Barmsk\u00e1 vl\u00e1da (vojensk\u00e1 junta) tento zvyk v 60. letech ozna\u010dila za barbarsk\u00fd a bohu\u017eel ho zak\u00e1zala. Mladou d\u00edvku s potetovanou tv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed jsem tu bohu\u017eel nespat\u0159il ani jednu. Tradice pavou\u010d\u00edch \u017een tak pomalu, ale jist\u011b z na\u0161eho sv\u011bta miz\u00ed, a pokud v Myanmaru nedojde ke zm\u011bn\u011b, jednoho dne u\u017e ji budeme zn\u00e1t pouze z dochovan\u00fdch pramen\u016f…<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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CESTA ZA FOTKOU<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Cizinec v Myanmaru nem\u016f\u017ee \u0159\u00eddit auto. Mezin\u00e1rodn\u00ed \u0159idi\u010dsk\u00fd pr\u016fkaz tu toti\u017e m\u00edstn\u00ed vl\u00e1da neakceptuje. Co v\u00edm, cesty k pavou\u010d\u00edm \u017een\u00e1m vedou, ale jsou to jen \u00fazk\u00e9 horsk\u00e9 stezky, kter\u00e9 jsou pro auto p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 mal\u00e9. \u0158e\u0161en\u00edm je motorka. S jej\u00edm p\u016fj\u010den\u00edm cizinci vl\u00e1da probl\u00e9m nem\u00e1. P\u016fj\u010duji si ji proto v Mandalay u nesm\u011bl\u00e9ho Zaka. Cesta trv\u00e1 n\u011bkolik dn\u00ed a po p\u0159\u00edjezdu do hor se radik\u00e1ln\u011b m\u011bn\u00ed po\u010das\u00ed. Teploty z 30 \u00b0C padaj\u00ed na 10 \u00b0C, vytrvale pr\u0161\u00ed. S d\u00fdmkou v ruce m\u011b pozdravila a pozvala na ob\u011bd. Komunikujeme spolu sice pouze posunky, ale oba si rozum\u00edme. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Po \u0161esti dnech v sedle motorky jsem kone\u010dn\u011b dos\u00e1hl nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edho vrcholu t\u00e9to oblasti Mt. Victoria. Rozhl\u00ed\u017e\u00edm se do krajiny a v\u00edm, \u017ee tam n\u011bkde v d\u00e1li ve vesni\u010dce Kido na m\u011b u\u017e pavou\u010d\u00ed \u017eeny kmene Ra \u010dekaj\u00ed. V\u00edm o nich ale zat\u00edm jenom j\u00e1. Oni o m\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b netu\u0161\u00ed zhola nic. Pokra\u010duji proto v cest\u011b. Klikat\u00edc\u00ed se serpetiny m\u011b vedou k odbo\u010dce na pra\u0161nou stezku. Auto by tu skute\u010dn\u011b neprojelo. Cesta je \u00famorn\u00e1, proto s vd\u011bkem p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1m mil\u00e9 pozv\u00e1n\u00ed. U silnice jsem toti\u017e n\u00e1hodou zastavil p\u0159ed domkem jedn\u00e9 z pavou\u010d\u00edch \u017een. Co jsem za\u017eil uvnit\u0159 m\u011b dostalo. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Sta\u010dila by mi misti\u010dka such\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee na zahn\u00e1n\u00ed hladu a dopln\u011bn\u00ed energie. Nam\u00edsto toho se p\u0159ede mnou objevila hostina \u2013 ryba, nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dky a zelenina. A co v\u00edc, pochutnal jsem si l\u00e9pe ne\u017e v kdejak\u00e9 vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 restauraci. \u201eD\u017eezutenbare, d\u017eezutenbare\u201c s vd\u011bkem d\u011bkuji pavou\u010d\u00ed \u017een\u011b a vyd\u00e1v\u00e1m se d\u00e1l na cestu. Nejenom toto prvn\u00ed setk\u00e1n\u00ed s kr\u00e1sn\u00fdmi pavou\u010d\u00edmi \u017eenami bylo neb\u00fdvale p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e9. Popravd\u011b, projel jsem u\u017e hodn\u011b m\u00edst sv\u011bta, ale tak mil\u00e9 a pohostinn\u00e9 lidi jsem snad nikde jinde ne\u017e v Barm\u011b neza\u017eil.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"featured_media":6902,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","class_list":["post-6704","portfolios","type-portfolios","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","portfoliosets-domorode-kmeny","portfoliosets-kultura","portfoliosets-portrety"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/portfolios\/6704","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/portfolios"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/portfolios"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6704"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6902"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6704"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}