{"id":6082,"date":"2018-07-25T13:17:34","date_gmt":"2018-07-25T11:17:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/?post_type=portfolios&p=6082"},"modified":"2020-12-15T21:51:39","modified_gmt":"2020-12-15T20:51:39","slug":"waura","status":"publish","type":"portfolios","link":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/portfolios\/waura\/","title":{"rendered":"Braz\u00edlie – Waur\u00e1"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Domorod\u00e9 kmeny\/ Portr\u00e9t<\/div>\n

Braz\u00edlie – Waur\u00e1<\/h2>\n
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\u201eAmazonsk\u00e9 nebe zahalil temn\u011b modr\u00fd samet poset\u00fd jasn\u011b z\u00e1\u0159\u00edc\u00edmi diamanty. Vl\u00e1du nad divokou d\u017eungl\u00ed op\u011bt p\u0159evzala tajupln\u00e1 noc.\u201c<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Do neoby\u010dejn\u00e9 symfonie no\u010dn\u00edho pralesa a p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm do m\u00fdch sn\u016f, se nen\u00e1padn\u011b vkr\u00e1daj\u00ed temn\u00e9 st\u00edny lesn\u00edch duch\u016f a hlavn\u011b neklidn\u00fd \u0161epot jedn\u00e9 z m\u00edstn\u00edch indi\u00e1nek – \u201eWaupit\u00e1! Waupit\u00e1! Cel\u00fd neklidn\u00fd se probouz\u00edm. Vych\u00e1z\u00edm z ch\u00fd\u0161e nad\u00fdchat se \u010derstv\u00e9ho vzduchu, kdy\u017e v tom m\u011b k zemi p\u0159i\u0161pendl\u00ed sk\u0159eky t\u00e1hnouc\u00ed se celou vesnic\u00ed. \u0160aman upadl do transu a blouzn\u00ed. S hlavou plnou my\u0161lenek op\u011bt us\u00edn\u00e1m. Po zbytek noci ale st\u00e1le sly\u0161\u00edm jedno jedin\u00e9 slovo. \u201eWaupit\u00e1\u201c. Za\u010dn\u011bme tento p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh p\u011bkn\u011b od za\u010d\u00e1tku. Po zdlouhav\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edprav\u00e1ch jsem kone\u010dn\u011b p\u0159iplul do vesnice. To nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed k n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b t\u011bchto tzv. xingusk\u00fdch indi\u00e1n\u016f mi v\u0161ak st\u00e1le je\u0161t\u011b chyb\u011blo. Po nekone\u010dn\u011b dlouh\u00e9 kmenov\u00e9 rad\u011b jsem na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed svolen\u00ed od \u0161amana a n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edka Kasikiho k pobytu zde z\u00edskal. B\u011bhem n\u011bkolika dn\u00ed jsem si v\u0161\u00edmal nejenom b\u011b\u017en\u00e9ho \u017eivota tohoto kmene, ale samoz\u0159ejm\u011b i tradic. Zaujalo m\u011b, jak \u017eeny sv\u00fdm dcer\u00e1m p\u0159ed ritu\u00e1ln\u00edmi tanci malovaly po t\u011ble ornamenty. Tato intimn\u00ed chv\u00edle podtrhovala d\u016fv\u011brn\u00fd vztah matky a dcery. Ka\u017ed\u00e1 maminka se sna\u017eila, aby jej\u00ed dcera byla co nejp\u011bkn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Na prostranstv\u00ed uprost\u0159ed vesnice se k tanc\u016fm stejn\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem p\u0159ipravovali i mu\u017ei. Kolem nohou i rukou si pro umocn\u011bn\u00ed mu\u017enosti omot\u00e1vali<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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bavln\u011bn\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edze. Byl jsem i sv\u011bdkem tradi\u010dn\u00edch z\u00e1pas\u016f huka huka. I p\u0159es mou p\u0159\u00edtomnost, chod vesnice plynul ve stejn\u00e9m pomal\u00e9m rytmu, jako p\u0159ed t\u00edm. Tedy alespo\u0148 do p\u0159edposledn\u00ed noci, kdy jsem pro\u017eil onen tajemn\u00fd sen. R\u00e1no po probuzen\u00ed jsem se s n\u00edm sv\u011b\u0159il Coraiovi, m\u00e9mu p\u0159ekl\u00e1daj\u00edc\u00edmu spole\u010dn\u00edkovi, a samoz\u0159ejm\u011b i on to \u0159ekl ve vesnici. M\u00edstn\u00ed \u0161aman si m\u011b ihned pozval k sob\u011b, aby mi vysv\u011btlil, co m\u016fj no\u010dn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh znamenal. Pokorn\u011b jsem tedy usedl v jeho ch\u00fd\u0161i. V\u00e1\u017en\u00e1 tv\u00e1\u0159 moudr\u00e9ho starce m\u011b trochu znerv\u00f3z\u0148ovala. N\u00e1\u010deln\u00edk mi vysv\u011btlil, \u017ee vykonan\u00e9 ritu\u00e1ln\u00ed tance, nebyly pro tentokr\u00e1t dostate\u010dn\u00e9, a proto se na n\u011b lesn\u00ed duchov\u00e9 rozhn\u011bvali. Za trest popr\u00e1\u0161ili n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edkovo i m\u00e9 t\u011blo smrteln\u011b jedovat\u00fdm pr\u00e1\u0161kem. Oba jsme dle n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edkov\u00fdch slov mohli minulou noc zem\u0159\u00edt. \u0160aman v noci upadl do transu, v k\u0159e\u010d\u00edch st\u00e9nal bolest\u00ed, k\u0159i\u010del a v\u0159e\u0161til. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed n\u00e1s pr\u00fd ochr\u00e1nili dob\u0159\u00ed duchov\u00e9. Aby byla moje ochrana je\u0161t\u011b siln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, bylo d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9, abych z\u00edskal kmenov\u00e9 jm\u00e9no. Ne p\u0159ezd\u00edvku, ale jm\u00e9no. \u0160amanova \u017eena proto vstoupila do m\u00e9ho snu a jedno mi p\u0159i\u0159kla. Waupit\u00e1 je tak od on\u00e9 noci m\u00fdm nov\u00fdm domorod\u00fdm jm\u00e9nem kmene Waur\u00e1. P\u0159\u00edb\u011bh, kter\u00e9ho jsem se stal sv\u011bdkem, je neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fd. T\u011b\u017eko \u0159\u00edct, jestli mi ho doma v\u016fbec n\u011bkdo uv\u011b\u0159\u00ed. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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CESTA ZA FOTKOU<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Na ka\u017edou cestu se je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed odjezdem velmi pe\u010dliv\u011b p\u0159ipravuji a stanov\u00edm si hlavn\u00ed c\u00edl v\u00fdpravy. T\u00edm Brazilsk\u00fdm c\u00edlem a jedn\u00edm z m\u00fdch d\u00e1vn\u00fdch klukovsk\u00fdch sn\u016f bylo proniknout do uzav\u0159en\u00e9ho sv\u011bta domorod\u00fdch indi\u00e1n\u016f \u017eij\u00edc\u00edch na horn\u00edm toku \u0159eky Xing\u00fa. Prvn\u00ed dny, kdy se toul\u00e1m po ulic\u00edch Ria jsem v hlav\u011b po\u0159\u00e1d vid\u011bl \u00fa\u017easnou knihu rakousk\u00e9ho horolezce a cestovatele Heinricha Harrera z roku 1968 U Jezera Bla\u017eenosti, kter\u00e1 o sv\u011bt\u011b xingusk\u00fdch indi\u00e1n\u016f pojedn\u00e1v\u00e1. I j\u00e1 jsem u\u017e hodn\u011b dlouho tou\u017eil po pozn\u00e1n\u00ed moudrosti t\u00e9to kultury. Z cel\u00e9ho srdce jsem si p\u0159\u00e1l za\u017e\u00edt jejich harmonick\u00fd \u017eivot ve skrytu <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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nespoutan\u00e9 d\u017eungle. Naplnit tento c\u00edl v\u0161ak nebylo ani trochu snadn\u00e9. Oblast, kterou tito indi\u00e1ni ob\u00fdvaj\u00ed, je cizinc\u016fm jen velmi t\u011b\u017eko p\u0159\u00edstupn\u00e1. Musel jsem nejprve z\u00edskat povolen\u00ed od Brazilsk\u00e9 vl\u00e1dn\u00ed agentury pro z\u00e1le\u017eitosti indi\u00e1n\u016f \u2013 FUNAI. Pap\u00edrov\u00e1n\u00ed je to stra\u0161n\u00e9, ale ani ve snu by m\u011b nenapadlo to vzd\u00e1t. Bohu\u017eel jednoho dne jsem zjistil, \u017ee je N\u011aCO je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edc, ne\u017e povolen\u00ed od FUNAI. A to povolen\u00ed od samotn\u00e9ho n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edka kmene! Po n\u011bkolika t\u00fddenn\u00edm n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9m putov\u00e1n\u00ed nap\u0159\u00ed\u010d Braz\u00edli\u00ed jsem dorazil do m\u011bste\u010dka, kter\u00e9 bylo podle mapy nejbl\u00ed\u017e n\u00e1rodn\u00edmu parku Xing\u00fa. Bez informac\u00ed, pouze s v\u00edrou, \u017ee se s indi\u00e1ny setk\u00e1m. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Kdy\u017e jsem zjistil, \u017ee tady nikdo nemluv\u00ed anglicky, za\u010dal jsem propadat panice. Nakonec m\u011b cosi osv\u00edtilo, p\u0159ibrzdil jsem p\u0159ed recepc\u00ed nejlep\u0161\u00edho hotelu a \u0161el se zeptat recep\u010dn\u00edho, jestli nev\u00ed, jak se k indi\u00e1n\u016fm dostat. Nemluvil anglicky, ale z m\u00e9 l\u00e1man\u00e9 portugal\u0161tiny pochopil, o co se mi jedn\u00e1. Zmizel kdesi v \u00fatrob\u00e1ch hotelu a za p\u00e1r minut mi n\u011bkoho p\u0159ivedl. B\u011bhem chvilky p\u0159ede mnou st\u00e1l Marcelo, celosv\u011btov\u011b uzn\u00e1van\u00fd antropolog, kter\u00fd v\u00edce ne\u017e 20 let studuje \u017eivot m\u00edstn\u00edch indi\u00e1n\u016f! Po mnoha vyjedn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edch jsem nakonec pr\u00e1v\u011b d\u00edky n\u011bmu z\u00edskal p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost vydat se do vesnice kmene Waur\u00e1 a setkat se s jej\u00edm n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edkem.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"featured_media":6427,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","class_list":["post-6082","portfolios","type-portfolios","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","portfoliosets-domorode-kmeny","portfoliosets-portrety"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/portfolios\/6082","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/portfolios"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/portfolios"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6082"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6427"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.adamlelek.com\/adamlelek\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6082"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}